Taking note of the fact this is a new engine (almost new), my first recommendation would be to fly it for at least a gallon or two with the high-speed needle set just beyond the transition between four-stroking and two-stroking. That means start with the needle opened maybe three turns, get the engine running, give it a couple minutes to warm up, then turn the needle in to the point where you get a fairly substantial increase in rpm with just a couple clicks of the needle. The ringed Supertiger will get stronger with every gallon over pretty much a full season. I would be in no hurry at all to tune close to peak; sneak up on it maybe one click per flying session.

Every session, before you take to the air, do the nose up test: with tank less than half full, run the thottle wide open and raise the nose of the plane so it points straight up. As long as the engine continues to run strong, you're good to fly. If RPM sags at all when you lift the nose, open the needle a click or two and repeat. The needle must be rich enough so that when you go nose up, the engine still draws ample fuel. Engine has to suck harder when the carb is higher than the fuel level in the tank.

Second recommendation would be to add a couple ounces of castor to a gallon of 18% lube fuel. You can get a bottle of castor oil from Sig if your local hobby store doesn't stock it. I would use 20% lube with significant castor (either all castor or at least 1/3 castor) for the first couple gallons. After that, total lube 18% is OK, blended 80% synthetic/20% castor minimum, or even continue with all castor for the life of the engine.

Third recommendation relates to idle needle. The test for good idle setting is to let the engine idle for at least 30 seconds. Idle meaning you can set the engine on the ground and RPMs are low enough so that the plane doesn't pull forward. After idling for 30 seconds, and with the plane tethered safely, rock the throttle to wide open and see what the engine does. Rock the throttle means don't snap it forward, move it up smoothly with maybe a half second transition time. If it picks up RPM smartly, with no hesitation, your idle needle setting is fine. If it sputters and stumbles, idle needle is rich. If it dies right away, or hesitates and only slowly comes up to speed, it's too lean. Proper setting should allow the throttle to respond almost instantaneously, without hesitating, without sputtering. The reason for idling 30 seconds is that with a rich low end needle, excess fuel will puddle in the bottom of the crankcase; then when you open the throttle the excess fuel gets sucked up into the combustion chamber and gives you an over-rich condition that takes a few seconds to burn off. If it doesn't puddle, the 30 seconds will prove that. If it doesn't cough and die, the strong transition to high throttle will prove it's not too lean.

Later in the season, after you've burned at least a few gallons flying definitely on the rich side of the high-speed needle, you can start thinking about tuning for more speed and power. That would involve the 'pinch test.' When you're at that stage, come on this forum and ask about the pinch test, or get one of the guys at the field who's good with two-strokes to help you with that. Even with the pinch test, the nose-up test still applies. You can't ever be so lean on the high needle that you lose RPM with the nose high.

Ideally, when your high end needle is properly set, it will be rich when flying straight and level, and then lean out somewhat but not overlean when you go vertical up, and it will do this with a low level of fuel in the tank--1/4 full or so. So when you need maximum power to go straight up, the engine will automatically respond (along with your throttle stick) to add power when you really need it.

I would strongly advise against trying to accelerate this process. The Supertiger line will basically run strong for a lifetime if it' not abused during the break-in period (or after). Abuse means foremost, don't run lean; don't run with too little lubrication; don't let the engine overheat (caused mainly by too lean, too little lube).

A high end needle that is definitely on the rich side but past the four-stroking into the two-stroking setting (over the hump, RPM-wise) will perform with maximum reliability (no fear of flame-out or deadstick). If you don't have enough RPMs to fly your model at such a setting, then you have too big a prop or too small an engine for your model, or both. This kind of setting will not give you the best fuel efficiency, but you can work your way out of this minor drawback as the season progresses.

This is my syllabus for Two-stroke Engines 101.