ORIGINAL: fishnstash

Hey Benifurgood score on the sled bro. from what i can tell in the pics it looks stable,the distance we use is 35' so measure it out and see if the box runs from back to all the way to the front at the 30-35 foot range and the sled is set.

as far as the diffs LOCK-M- UP save your $$$ on fancy lockers nobody will see them and JB WELD WORKS BETTER for $ 3.50 slipper clutch-grab it with a pair of pliers and tighten it up until it wont go any tighter(i have not yet tried to eliminate it on the LST yet) KEEP THIS IN MIND!!!!! when you lock your diffs your turning radius will almost double it will not steer nice and tight like it used too!!!!!!

clutch's hmmmm its all p/opinion from what i have found carbon shoes work the best and without doubt use mugen springs 0 .9 1.0 or 1.1 all of these are great spring rates depending on whare your motor makes its power.(ok enough secrets)

motors- Sure Fire .32 over rated Collari .30 or .32 junk!!! picco .26 .27 Good WASP .28 standard Good mach .26 ported and polished- record holder motors are what you make them most are ok look for high torque mills,some motors that work great in buggys wont do squat for a pull truck. like a $ 375 sirio .27 for example it will hand you your lunch on the race track but a $145 mach .26 will drag it around the parking lot!!


suspension- LOW AND STIFF

TIRES- the larger the better but stock lst tires work great

the smaller the clutch bell the better the larger the spur gear the better and 2nd gear should hit @ 1/2 track