Sethhunter

Thanks for the tip.

I don't know if this would help, but I built a full scale cold-molded sailboat hull a few years ago using the method described in "The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction, Wood & West System Materials." The method uses wood stringers over formers as the mold. Each layer of veneer is stapled to the strips. You pull the staples as each veneer layer goes on, restapling to hold the latest layer down until the epoxy cures. The staple pattern shows where the underlying stringers are (and where the gaps between them are). When done, the shell lifts off the mold. It inspired me to try it on the model and was reasonably successful even in small scale.

One of the most useful skills I learned from the Gougeons is how to loft an offset table into a set of sections. Even if you start with complete formers, I would recommend checking their fairness by lofting so you don't end up with a funky hollow or bump.

Have you asked Leo at WWI Aero for his Pfalz materials? One of the most noticable differences I've seen in drawings is the rudder shape. I patterned mine after Leo's drawings, which had a more pronounced hump above the hingeline, then a straight run into the rounded section. Others seem to be more continuously curved.