It's best before beginning any adjustments to fully center all of the radio controls.

The toe of each wheel is adjusted by turning each of the turnbuckles. A good starting position would be something like 1 degrees positive toe in the front and 1 negative in the rear (fronts point out, rears point in 1/2 degree on each side). The camber is adjusted by turning the pillow balls, screw the upper ball out to increase positive camber and the bottom out to increase negative camber. Never screw the pillows all the way in, that can cause the arms to snap. A good starting position would be something like 2-4 degrees negative in the front and 1 degree negative in the rear. There is also caster adjustments but if you have the RPM arms you cannot adjust the caster. If you have stock arms put all of the front suspension caster spacers in the front to increase the caster to max (usually makes the car feel better). Everyone has their own opinions on alignment though.

There should be very little play in each of the pillow balls but not so tight it restricts movement, screw the pillow ball caps down until they are firm then back them off just until you feel a little play in the axle carrier. Its best to do this adjustment with the shocks disconnected or support the lower a-arm to remove the spring tension. Use a little plumbing pipe tape on the ball cap threads to keep them from backing out.

I use a monster camber guage from RPM for all toe measurements but you could easily make your own using two sticks, a nail and a protractor. Set the car on flat ground and let it settle and measure the camber. Rotate the wheel and check again, sometimes the wheels can be wobbly and ruin your mesurements. Checking the toe using the same guage can be done by placing the front (or rear) wheels against a straight piece or wood like a 2x4. Again, rotate the wheels 180 degrees to be sure wobble is not causing bad measurements.

[link=http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/faq/camber.htm]RPM[/link] also has a great guide for their product.