Am presuming your past the stage of breaking in, if not then you need to follow a few measures to prolong your engine life.

If you are still at break in read from step 1, if you are past break in, then read on from step 14

1- Heat your engine up with a hairdryer, bring it up to temp something on the lines of 180 to 200 F max, primp the engine a couple of times 2 or 3 times, watch the line for fuel flow, do not over flood the engine.
2- Ignitor on and start her up, once the engine is running, let it idle for a few seconds and give quick short bursts noting more then half throttle. Clean out the exhaust chamber.
3- Remove the spark plug, she should continue to idle, if she dies try to start her again if she continues to die everytime then your plug is most likely gone. Replace if necessary.
4- Break in the engine with a medium plug will keep her idle constant, verify your not running a cold plug less headaches for you to get through the break stage.
5- Now that you changed the plug out, start her back up, let her idle if she dies after you removed the ignitor say about5 or 6 seconds later, your running slightly rich or most likely your idle screw is not set right.
6- Check idle screw adjustment, your radio trim to zero, throttle at idle, the idle screw should leave you with a gap of 1mm or 1.5 for starters you can fine tune that later, most lanuals recommend what it should be set check the manual each engine has it's own setting, 1 or 1.5 will keep a good idle maybe a little on the high side. Turning the idle screw clockwise will increae idle, counter clockwise wil decrease idle.
7- Now that you idle is set start her up, just incase your over adjusted the idle screw, get ready to switch of your engine when you start her up if she starts to suddenly over rev.
8- If your idle screw is set right she should hold a good idle note.
9- Remove ignitor your engine will remain in idle.
10- There are several methods for the breaking in process, i like fuelmans breaking in method when it comes to ABc type engines, read on this article http://www.cooperfuels.com/Break-in.htm , whilst some find that breaking in method is rather hard on the engine it's the best breaking in method IMHO that I have come across.
11- Old school, breaking in method, let her idle for 2 tanks, then1/4 throttle runs then 1/2 throttle tank runs, then full throttle runs and then final 2 tanks on tunning is also good your choice your engine.
12- Just a note on the above to mentioned methods, as long as your getting the head in the 190 to 200F mark for heat cycling the engine you will have a good breaking in method.
13- Just make sure after each tank or run or 2 or 3 minute interval according to your breaking in method, that you bring the piston to the bottom, (BDC), remove the plug if your especially noisy about being 0 degree in, but I just move the fly wheel to lowert the piston after TDC, that will give your cyclinder enough room to contract back during the cooling stage.
14- When it comes to tunning, I like after the breakin to through out the plug and install a fresh one and then tune on from there, tune HSN (High speed needle first, then low speed needle and correct idle screw once you hit the mark on the LSN and HSN.
15- After that nothing more then maintenance from enjoying your engine and the hobby itself.
16- Just a note temp guns and temp tunning is not a means to determine the best tunning result too many variables, stick with sound, smoke and performance and use the gun to keep things in check. I like to run my engine on have fun days on the track at nothing more then 220F again I stress that this variable is not a definitive means to tune our engine.

Good luck