Some things that come to my mind:
First off, with that engine, you might want to go long prop, short pitch. For example, maybe a 13 X 4, or (no more) than a 12 X 6. I'm not sure of the recommendations on that particular engine, but go big with small pitch (largest first number coupled with smallest second number according to OS). This will go a long ways in slowing the plane down for you. First off, it won't achieve such a high top speed. Secondly, it will act as a great speed break when you are ready to land.
You are familiar with being cautious around these things--the prop can cut a finger off, just as the rotor can on a heli, so you know all of that.
Make sure all of your servos are operating in the right direction before takeoff. Preflight every flight!

Rudder is very important on a plane, but your left thumb will feel kind of useless when compared to that of a heli. I too fly both, and a heli involves much more continuous use of the left thumb. Not so on a plane, but it is very important none the less. When correcting for cross winds, it can be invaluable. One thing to remember--and all planes are different--but (with your trainer) the plane is going to roll in the direction of rudder input. So if you are wanting to course correct without rolling (such as an approach for landing), then you will need to work opposite aileron with the rudder. This is different from a heli (where yaw control input doesn't affect roll or pitch).

Landing a forward moving object is different than landing something straight vertical, but you should get use to it. Just remember--you need more runway than you think to land. Always have more than you think you need, and try to land where the wheels touch the ground in front of you. That way (assuming you know how much runway is behind you) you will have plenty of room to stop before running out of runway. If you fly past yourself, then you may not touchdown and stop in time. (I hope that made sense).

Standing behind your airplane during your first several takeoffs will definitely help--and I recommend doing it. Just make sure you can walk backwards to your pilot station without tripping over anything. Little by little, start taking off standing closer and closer to the the pilot's station. Eventually, you'll be taking off from where you are "supposed to" and you won't even realize when the transition took place.

As far as mixing rudder, I wouldnt' do it with a trainer. Mixing it with throttle isn't necessary anyway. Left pull is induced by P factor, not torque. If your trainer is a tri-gear, you won't experience any of this on the ground anyway. P factor usually only affects a plane when it is tilted upwards--in a climbing attitude. Tail draggers are tilted upwards on the ground, so when accelerating (until the tail wheel comes up), P factor will pull the plane to the left. You have to correct this with rudder. With tri-gear, where the plane sits level on the ground, there is no p factor until you begin the climb out. By that time, you have enough stabilizer authority that P factor will not affect your trainer that much at all--especially with such a small prop. All of that to say--don't mix your rudder--either with throttle or aileron.

And I agree- setup some dual rates. However, don't mess with them at first. You have enough to do as it is. Put your plane on low rates and fly it for a long time. Then, turn it up and start using dual rates.