OSG,

I use the primer from the same manufacturer who's product I will be using on the final stages. This is probably not necessary, but why take the chance? I normally use a primer surfacer product, and only enough to give the substrate some, "Tooth" for the color coat to bond to. The main thing that I have found when using automotive finishes, and others as well is to have everything as clean as humanly possible, and then clean it some more. The other thing is to have the surface prepared correctly. Paint will not hide a screw-up in construction, or in covering. If you have a bad surface under the paint, you will have a bad finished product. Flawless is almost good enough. This is not stretching it, it is a universal fact. Ask any professional body man (I'm not one), and he will tell you the same thing. I do, however, have a very good downdraft booth at the Dealership, and I am using that to do the work in. This booth has mulitple stage filteration, and I can put a positive pressure in the booth, so no foreign particulates can get to the wet paint. I can also bake the finish if needed. This serves to accelerate the catalyzing process and shortens the time until the finish will not be harmed by any dust that might reach the surface.

You can achieve an acceptable finish at home as well. I used to make use of a wooden frame with visqueen stretched over the framework. Make sure to use a respirator that has both dust and chemical filters, or a fresh air system. A dust mask is useless against some of the calalyzed paint that is available today. Some of this stuff is very lethal.

I use a High volume-low pressure system to apply the paint as well.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1