You must be able to use your left hand and hold in the rudder. I have never flown a twin that I couldn't hold with rudder, especially if I reduced power on the good engine.

That being said, I generally always use a digital servo on rudder and I make darn sure that the rudder pushrod won't flex or bend no matter which rudder I have to hold. If you can hold full rudder and flex the rudder back to center, you may be in trouble at some time. Sport digital servos are down to $30 so there is no reason not to ues one. Even a 50 in-oz digital servo will hold the rudder over better than a 100 in-oz regular servo.

The best thing is to do your best to not have an engine failure. Forget max power and forget syncing your engines. 10,000 rpm difference is a lot greater than 500 rpm difference. Use well broken in engines. New engines are looking for trouble. I keep a Stick around to fly in engines. When you start your twin, start one engine, turn it, back off until you have a slight smoke trail, at least 400 rpm off the max. Hold the nose up at full power for a good 30 seconds to see if it will lean out and quit. Do not let your buddies tweak your engines. |

When one engine is set, shut down and do the other. Shut it down and top off tanks if they are small. Then crank both and DO NOT CHANGE THE SETTINGS. Keep your "friends" from helping by tweaking a needle. If both engines are set for a nice smoke trail, you'll fly the whole flight just fine.

Just to show that the difference in engine rpm didn't matter, I flew a plane with different engines, and took it to the Multis Over McDonough meet and flew it. I had a TT .46 Pro/11-6 prop on one side and a TT .42GP plain bearing/10-6 prop on the other. Couldn't tell the difference. Flew just fine.