I am one of those who only uses two fingers to type. Wore a half inch off both index fingers getting that done. My kids were in high school when I started and had graduated by the time I finished.

To expand on the techniques a bit: if you decide to use dope to stick your fabric down, you will have to coat the framework first. Apply a couple of coats to the frame everywhere the fabric will contact it and let them dry, then lay your material on the frame. Start at one end, and while holding the fabric in place, start applying dope to the fabric, working it through to the framework, The coats you placed on the frame will soften, sticking the material down. Work out the biggest wrinkles and folds as you go, until it's all stuck down and the edges are trimmed and doped down. Let it dry and then take your air gun and shrink out the remaining wrinkles. To me, this method is a bit messier than what I described earlier.

Below are some pics showing Koverall and dope finishes with rib tapes. The unfinished wing is the top wing of my UMF WACO, it has two coats of unthinned dope. The rib tapes are the paper first aid tape. The second pic is my Bristol. This has a LustreKote finish over three coats of Koverall, and the rib tapes are also the paper first aid tape. The last two are my L-4, it has five coats of dope thinned 70-30, the paint is Rustoleum with oil based polyurethane clearcoat, and the rib tapes are the pink paper hair setting tape; note the size of the pinks. This is a 1/5 scale plane. I can't really tell the difference between the extra coats of thinned dope, and the others with fewer coats of unthinned dope. Every time you brush on another coat, the previous one will soften somewhat, so don't brush any more than you have to, or it will lump up and streak.