"Well, what program are you guy using to program the chip ?"

WinPic should work for you, when you have the right voltages. I use MPLab, which is free from MicroChip.

"By the way, the capacitors 100u on the schematics. What are they ? Electrolitic ? Ceramics ? ... I can't seem to find anything labeled 100u at Fry's electronics nor online. The capacitors im using are some Alluminum 10uf surface mount (wrong item from Dkey since I thought they were least expensive!"

Generally, any capacitor of 1 ufd or larger is electrolytic. Mylar/polyester capacitors of 1ufd are made, but are quite large. The 100 ufd capacitor should be an aluminum electrolytic. Do not substitute tantalum. I would not substitute a 10 ufd for the 100 ufd. Use the correct capacity. As an emergency, you could try a 10 ufd substitute, or several 10 ufd capacitors in parallel (not series), but every substitution you make will make trouble-shooting that much more difficult. Be sure the voltage ratings are correct. You can use higher votlage ratings, but not lower. Surface mount style should work electronically, but you will then have components on both sides of your board. Remember, electrolytic capacitors have polarity, like batteries, and have to be installed in the correct orientation. I suggest double checking to be sure you have the right size and ratings and that they are not tantalum electrolytic. Capacitors, if installed incorrectly can explode. Tantalums can explode, if used improperly...the voltage ratings for a tantalum capacitor must be derated depending on the circuit in whihc they are used. That's why I would not recommend that you use them, unless you know how to do that.

"Bobine, is that where the Spark coil connections be soldered in ?"

There has been discussion on this thread before about the terminology. I believe "spark coil" is reserved for the very high-voltage coil that goes to the spark plug. "Bobine" is the small toroid coil you wound (SEE CORRECTION BELOW). Be sure the leads are attached with the proper orientation. The little "dots" on the schematic mean something, namely the beginning turn of each coil, assuming each coil was wound in the same direction. You can also use the ending turn, as long as you are consistent.

As for trouble shooting, Bigboat will be better able to advise than I am for this circuit. My approach would be to leave the PIC chip and IC2 (TIL111) out until I was sure the voltages were correct. The HV end should run without those chips and you should be able to measure about 200 to 400 volts across the output capacitor. It is possible to test for spark by "simply" and briefly touching a lead from the +4.8V of your battery to the top of R3. These are only suggestions derived from the schematic. I have never built that circuit per se. The circuit I built is a little different.

John

OOPS -- I had it backwards with respect to the Bobine definition. Poor memory and a lot of posts to go through. Sorry. Thank you, Bigboat, for the correction -- John