Wraping the fire wall in glass isn't nessesary but I'd reccomend it. I've powered 3 of these with a ST 2300, Moki 1.8 and a Moki 2.1. Each one had the fuse side split in line with the firewall and one example split the corner blocks. Yours should be fine doing normal acro (I do a lot of 3D) but if you nose it over on landing you will crack the firewall loose.
I cut the triangle stock forward of the firewall off, It's useless because the fuse sides are prone to shearing behind it! I then rounded the corners of the firewall and laid glass across it and 6" back in the sides. The cowl covers most of the ugliness so you don't even have to recover!
You could always replace the entire nose with 5-ply aircraft and carbon. That's what it tool to keep the Moki 2.1 attatched