This particular carb came fully equipped with usable throttle and choke levers. What a welcome change. I've become so fed up with engine suppliers sending out aircraft engines with a throttle tab designed for a weed eater and not usable on a plane so I'm extremely relieved to see an engine I don't have to modify. Thanks Tom, hope that's being done with all of them. Heck, even the fuel inlet is pointing the right way for a change. Most of the new engines I usually see have the inlet pointed to the side or down for some reason. In some cases even forward!
That's one of my contributions. Nothing drives me nuts quite as quickly as an engine that cannot be used without modification.
Of course the engine comes with the ignition and CM-6 spark plug. All you'll need to complete the engine installation is a switch and battery for the ignition. You'll have to add a plug to the ignition switc lead that matches that on the switch you intend to use.
Pat, I think if you look more closely you'll see the ignition is indeed equipped with a Futaba style female servo connector on the battery lead. The ignition supplier includes a matching male pigtail in case you are using a switch that does not have a mating connector.
If you use all standard switches and battery packs no soldering is required.
Also Pat did not mention that the ignition comes with some nice plastic "wrap" that can and should be wound around the plug wire and other wires to prevent abrasion which can be done easily by rubbing on the fiberglass cowl.
(4) Sullivan clevises. The good kind.
All the new hardware kits now come with nice 4-40 ball links. You can get clevises if you prefer but most people want to use ball links.
Since the spinner is secured to the backplate at the side with four 3mm button head allen screws you don't need a prop adapter or long spinner screw.
I don't sell these, but I've used them and they are great. However, if you plan to use one when you order your spinner do yourself a favor and at the same time order a bag of 3mm x 6mm button head screws from micro fasteners. The first thing you will do (and I mean the very first) is remove the screws, and one of them (or more) will drop on the floor and roll under something and disappear. For $5 you will save yourself a lot of cursing.
A short follow up. I mounted the 3mm 53 on mine yesterday, The installation is very easy, requires 1" standoffs which I made from oak dowels in about 5 minutes, and 4 x 2.5" screws. This puts the prop about 1/4" ahead of the cowl face. The muffler fits nicely inside the cowl with no butchering, and without a spark plug in the engine the cowl will fit over the engine without any cutting. So it looks like the only cutting will be a small hole to clear the spark plug/cap (may not be needed) and perhaps a V cut at the rear to allow more cooling air to vent.
This is the easiest engine mounting operation I have ever done with a gas engine.
TF