Did all Addicts mods to my boat, and everything looking great. Went to lake, tossed in water run ok but needed adjusted. Second attempt boat went 20ft and quit moving, and over revved. Brought it back, and prop and shaft gone, but clear enough I found it. The set screw on drive collar wouldn't stay locked on shaft so I put in new set screw, but if I pulled and twisted with visegrips it would still pull off no matter how hard I tightened screw. Those screws are just to small in my opinion. I have another boat with a .125 driveshaft, and it use 6-32 setscrews. A lot bigger. I drilled out and tapped both drive dog, and inside drive collar to 6-32, ground some setscrews short enough to sit flush, and gave it a try. Now if I twist and pull shaft with visegrips, the shaft twists before collars let go, and because hexs are much larger the screws tighten and loosen easier without rounding out. Has nobody else had this problem with early Miss Buds?
I have done a couple extra mods to my early MB that might be of interest also. The first one is just for easier maintenance. Where the links for the controls hook to servos, and especially the carb I replace Z bend with locking Quick-Links. Can have engine out of Bud in less than 1min now if need be, and back in in about 2min. MUCH easier than original setup.
Second mod concerns the radio box. I didn't like how all the wires in box have a habit of coming un-tucked and trying to invade servo side of box causing concern of tangling linkage. Since I already had made the lexan .060 lid, I cut another piece of lexan that matches the length of the box and the depth of the box from the new lid to floor of box. I CA'd and epoxied this new piece at a 90 degree angle to the lid piece so that it runs lenghtwise down lid between servo side, and receiver side of box. I sanded all edges smooth, contoured the corners, and add thin foam along edge. Now when I put on radio box lid wires running to servos are pressed flat against floor of box in neat row, and servo and receiver sides of box are completely separated. Now it doesn't matter what happens with wires as they cannot intrude on servo linkages. If new divider is fit tight and foamed nicely receiver, switch, failsafe, and battery are now more waterproof also because pushrod boots and linkage where water could enter are not on the same side of the divider. I filled my hull completely full of water to test it, and there was maybe 1/8th teaspoon of water in servo side, and none in receiver side after 15 minutes. Only drawback is that pipe must be removed now to open radio box lid.
One caution on using packing peanuts for floatation. Many packing peanuts used now are biodegradable. When they get wet, THEY DISSOLVE!!!!!. I filled my sponsons with peanuts that came from a shipping box from Tower Hobbies, and the first time I got in a decent run at the lake, I couldn't figure out boat was getting more sluggish, and harder to keep on plane. When I had tossed the boat into the water for launch a small amount of water splashed into boat through air holes. This small amount of water started to dissolve the packing peanuts which then turned into sludge with consistency of white paste. The sludge ran everywhere and eventually plugged auto-bailer open which allowed more water to enter, and further dissolved the rest of the peanuts. When I finally got it back to shore it was close to becoming a Miss Bud submarine. The inside of the hull was completely covered in this slimy, sticky mess. I had to pull engine and tank and fill hull with hot water and Mr Clean 6 TIMES to get the dissolved peanut sludge out, and a lot of alcohol to get auto-bailer moving free again. TEST ALL FLOATATION MATERIALS FOR WATER EFFECTS BEFORE USE!!!! In this increasingly enviromentally-concious world, more and more things are becoming biodegradeable that we never think of.