On to the wings.....

On an electric, every gram counts. You don't have the vibration of an engine to worry about, so you'd be suprised what you can get away with.

I like to honeycomb my panels on electrics. I use a different technique on my glow planes, but for the electrics I build, honeycombing the panels saves at least an ounce per panel and shows no ill effects. I know some who swear they can feel the ing twist in flight (I'm not saying they can't, but this plane doesn't seem to care). At any rate, I think it's worth doing.

We can do this for before we ship for a small fee, but it's easy to do yourself if you're well versed with it. Basically you use poster board templates and a small hot knife and just cut away voids in a geodesic pattern. You need to leave at least 3/8" at the edges, and don't get over into the load bearing areas like the wing tube or spars. A little acreful planning though and it's not too bad.

Next, sand the TEs flat with the foam core. be VERY careful and patient with this step so as not to dish the foam surface. What I do is use an 80 grit bar and get it close, then sand it flush along with the entire core surface with a hard 220 grit block. This is the point to sand all of the cores. just break the glaze and get it even, don't go crazy.

The spar slots should be marked. The easiest way to do this is to use a straight edge guide (like the side of a level) and a dremel with a router cage. Use a 1/8" router bit set a hair deeper than the 1/4" spar and just guide it down the straight edge. be careful and patient when you hit the false rib. After this is done, use either your perma grit file or better yet a standard 1/8" steel file from the hardeare store and run it down the slots. Test fit the spars and they should be snug but flush with the top pf the surface.

Sand ALL cores with a 220 grit block and then blow them off with an air hose or vacuum. Keep them clean for the sheeting process.