For the wheels, I use the pin technique. I use heavy duty T pins and actually heat them up unit they are red hot. Hold them with pliers, or course, and quickly push it through. If you miss the hole on the other side (doesn't happen often to me), just heat it up and do it again. The pin actually boils and vulcanizes the rubber into a neat, clean hole that the PIA BVM wheel screw goes right through. An additional benefit is that the T pin won't screw up the threads if it happens to touch them on the way through the hole.

For cutouts, if the panel to be cutout is scrap, or its on a "non-critical" opening like a Kingcat nose wheel door, I use Gordon's method. If its a opening that is more critical, like a hatch or gear door on a scale bird where the cutout is the hatch/door, then I start the cut using the method Steve described. The only difference is that on long, straight cuts, after I've scored it with the #11 blade a few times, I start cutting it with a Zona saw that I've removed the spine from. This method leaves nice straight cuts with minimal gap too, and it a bit faster than the #11 blade by itself.

Bob