RCU Forums - View Single Post - Query
Thread: Query
View Single Post
Old 09-11-2007 | 03:50 PM
  #8  
WhiteWolf McBride
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,930
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
Default RE: Query

Tanx:

Ok, are you using any of the CA accelerant spray (ZipKicker or whatever spray to fast-harden the glue? DONT. That is part of the problem. If you can, use the gap-filling or flex-CA formula they make. You could sprinkle a bit of making powder on the CA to harden it... much better hardener, and makes an interesting surface (test it on a scrap of something) Critical: is the styrene and metal where you are applying the glue BARE and CLEAN? If not, thats your problem: its fracturing at the styrene/paint or metal/paint interface. Use some fine sandpaper to get clean surfaces before ya glue, then paint over it later.

Barring the CA solution, look for another of the super-glues, like gorilla-Glue, NoNails or another of the non-CA glues. Perhaps a bit of two-part epoxy meant for metals (like JBWeld) would be better. ColonelChimp, you have any ideas?

As for the wiring... got a friend thats handy with a soldering iron? Offer to trade a bit of work for some hook-ups.

As for suppliers in the UK, perhaps ColonelChimp and some of the UK-crew can assist ya.

PS: arhumphreys, see post #4
Bits falling off: Many plastics have different adhesion qualities, but the best glue for styrenes is Tenax-R or a similar liquid solvent product. Get it cheap at a plastic's shop as MEK, and they often have syringe-type dispenser mini-bottles too, so you don't have to find a Touch-n-Flow. Also make sure you're gluing to a ~clean~ surface, by scraping away a bit of paint to put the piece styrene-to-styrene. Neat thing is you can apply this with the pieces already assembled as it 'wicks' into a joint. 500 ml should run you about 10-12 bucks.