Use elmers yellow glue or equivlent for one thing. It makes sanding the joints possible. CA has it's place, but it shouldn't be used near something that will be sanded later. It hardens way harder than the balsa, so trying to sand of the runover is all but impossible. The yellow carpenters glue cleans up with water and with a bit of planning you keep a good work stream going.

When using the thin CA glue, get a length of capilary tubing and cut the end of your glue bottle so you can just barelly force the tubing in from the wide side. Cut the tubing off about 2" long and now you can put the CA where you want it without it over running the entire bench. Don't squeze the bottle, just wait for the CA to go down the tubeing. A little is good, a lot is a mess. You don't need to flood the pieces to get a good bond. The medimum and thick are a bit easier to use, but for balsa to balsa joints, use the thin.

Fit you parts together so you a tight mechanical fit, then any glue you use will give a stronger joint. Air gaps are problems waiting to happen. Fill the gaps with slivers of balsa and when you have a much as possible packed in, then spot it with a drop of CA.

Epoxy is used for joints that take the most load. IE the firewall. the landing gear mount, wing mounts. and gluing major pieces together, IE wing halfs.

To keep the glue from sticking, and this will be hard as it's your first kit, use the backing off Monokote for plan covering. Yes, CA will stick to it but no as bad as wax paper or parchment paper. By the way CA weeping under the part on the plan covering is you main enemy for glue problems. Use as little glue as possible.

I keep a mustard squeze bottle full of hardware store alcohol for cleanup. This is for epoxy. I keep another small bottle of acetone avaiable also for CA and a roll of paper towel handy. When using the carpenters glue, I keep a spray bottle of water handy for cleanups.

Oh yes, I about forgot. Thin the carpenters glue by adding about 10% water to it. This helps it to penitrate the balsa some. I mix up about an ounce of it and store it a small water tight jar. Use a small artist brush to apply it to the wood.

For epoxy, I pick up a tube of 100 small 1 oz plastic cups like you get condments in at some fast food restrants. I pick them up at a restrant supply for not much over $2.00 a tube. Get a box of round tooth picks for stir sticks. Mix you epoxy and then just throw away the little cup when you are done. I keep the cup and stick on the bench and when the stick is firmly glued to the cup, it is OK to move the parts you just glued together. Don't put any strain on them yet, but you can carefully move them.

Hope these tips help. I'm sure more will be following.

Don