Kjell,

You could attach the damper as shown in your photograph.

An alternative way of doing it, would be to fit the servo with a double sided arm instead of a round wheel. The arm on one side of the servo would attach to the control horn in the usual way. The arm on the other side would be attached to the connecting rod of the damper and the body of the damper could then be attached to a suitable hard point.

Both methods should work OK but the latter may give you a little more room to play with.

I like the idea of a high quality damper. Not only would this be easier to adjust but it should also give better repeatability and be less susceptible to leaks.

I know that the damper that YS use for their YS Mount is a Tamiya Part. If you purchase a replacement set of dampers from Tamiya, they come with a choice of 3 different pistons with 1,2 or 3 bleed holes. The Part No is TA 53155 - see attached link - http://www.fusionhobbies.com/PhotoGa...ctCode=TA53155. I would remove the spring from the damper for the reasons stated in my earlier post i.e. to give a closer approximation to a true 'first order system' and minimise the possibilty of oscillations. ( I think these are very unlikely anyway since the basic transfer system of the servo itself is designed to be critically damped without overshoot.)

You can also buy Tamiya damper oil in different viscosities.

At a guess, I would probably start off with the 3-hole piston and a low viscosity oil. This would minimise the inevitable lag that a separate damper would add to the system. You might even find that you had to drill more holes in the damper piston!

Best of luck

Bob