RE: Focus Sport 110 YS Powered
Part 2.5
Neat trick………………..
I have another little trick to check our work. Sometimes its 3am and looking at the little points is tough. They bounce a little as they move….
We left the rudder off the model for a reason. Here is why, take a small section of the pushrod tubing. Masking tape it to one side of the elevators. Because of the taper on the stabs and elevators it will have a gap on the opposing elevator. The photos below show the idea. Get it as straight and square to each side as possible. I left masking tape in the end that was not taped down to help it show up.
If the elevators are moving together 100% of the time…this gap will stay the same at all times. Again the gap is a result of the taper on the stab and the elevators. So the gap on mine was about 3/32” maybe 1/8” the photo shows the setup.
I moved the elevator stick up and down and watched this gap. If it stays the same the entire time then the elevator was hinged straight and the settings for ATV or travel adjust are set properly.
Mine by the way confirmed the proper setup. Now I can dial my D/R back to a flyable rate say 80% and it will stay tracking together. I don’t know what the values are for degrees of throw yet. I do know I’m likely close thanks to my ratio of servo arm to control horn length. My guess now is about 80% D/R will be about 15 degs of travel. That is not important now. What is important is that the travels are the same…and the total travel is not way too little or way too much for what will be needed to fly, snap, and spin the model.