Pete, I do indeed DESPISE the NY-Spankies. [:-] but I won't get into it here [:@]
I have stickers that are similar on my chef toolbox, Race snowboard, and
the inside of my locker at my ex-employers place of work (the entire kitchen was Yankie fanatics.)
Funny you should ask about the truck... I'm tearing it apart tonight. I know I need layshaft gear and an axle grubscrew block for sure aswell as some of the small plastic " -C " clip spacers for the suspention alignment.
Need some Klots oil as well. Figure I'm a Chef.... gotta have a "French-fry" smell to my buggies now
Diablo, On another forum, Lunar Wolf posted :
Just a quick note for anyone who's not run a full alloy diffcase before. The manual for the SS states to apply threadlock between the inner race of the two large bearings and the diffcase, this isn't 'optional' as some people on other forum's seem to be advising but is an absolute must. And i'd also advise some between the outer race of the smaller diff bearings and the diffcase while your at it.
I find the HPI blue threadlock is best as it dosn't seem to be the brittle type of kung foo grip stuff loctite use but more like a rubber solution glue that is easy to remove when you need to. Don't go crazy, just use enough to get the job done, a thin evenly applied layer is all you need.
If you don't threadlock the bearings they will rotate against the diffcase and wear against it making the fit loose and causing issues with your transmissions gear mesh, this can destroy your diffcase in a single session if one of the bearings gets a little grit in it but will happen slowly anyway. People who have owned full alloy diffcases for other RC's have found this out the hard way and lost a few gear teeth and had to junk their diffcases.
This is fairly important in the build.