No the formula is not exactly the same...but close.

I do know that it's difficult to make direct comparisons and general statements. I only have one concern: weight. This is a LARGE plane and has a lot of surface area. If careful attention is not payed while doing the finish, one can easily add a lot of dead weight. Sandpaper is your friend....

The trick if there is one, is that you do NOT want to build up the finish with multiple coats. You want the paint to where you can't see through it...and run in the other direction.

I am fairly certain that the Klass koat will withstand 30% nitro, but someone correct me if I'm wrong. Nelson's paint works and can be very light if done correctly, but can also be difficult to work with.

Now one thing about the urethanes. Fumes and such are mainly based on past experiences with larger painting guns using high pressure equipment and lots of overspray. With a LVLP or airbrush like i have listed, the overspray and fumes are MUCH less. No worries about explosions with exhasut fans, there's simply not enough vapor concentration to flash. You can spray straight atomized thinner right at the fan motor and it won't do anything (although I DON'T suggest trying that LOL).

The 3 steps where you are going to be creating a lot of overspray are primer, base color and clear if you clear the whole plane. The colors run through the airbrush are next to nothing. And if you use the BCS for the base color, then all you have to worry about is the primer and clear. And the primer can be done in stages, you don't have to do it all at once.

But the respirator thing is real. You do not want to breathe this stuff, and when it is flashing (AFTER all of the overspray has been vented) that is when the fumes are the worst...and you can;t see them. Best advice is to leave for a couple of hours after spraying and keep the ventillation going. After that, you're probably ok. But even then spraying in a small apartment....hmm...just be careful and use your head.

Water based colors will not hold up to nitro on ther own, they still have to be clear coated. Just FYI.

In my humble opinion klass kote may be the best alternative to urethanes, but I don't have any experience with the newer stuff. So hopefully someone will jump in and enlighten us.

But since I have no fear I think I'll just keep using urethanes for myself They are the best for this particular application, no question about it.

Of course there is always dope and silkspan.......

-Mike