Stab Balancing
Pete,
I plan to balance the stab on my Trim F-86 as well. Here is a pointer for you....Buy the lead sinkers that will be oversize for your application. Make the cutouts for the weights in the stabs a triangular shape that follows the leading and inside root edges of the stabs. You can remove the foam from the inside of the stabs up to the leading edge and out to the inside of the skins. Next, using a hammer and hard surface, (anvil on a vice or the concrete floor) beat the lead weight to the shape you desire. (the triangular shape that matches your cutout in the stabs) This will be easy as the lead is very soft. Assemble the stabs on the plane. Place these weights on the top of the stabs on the leading edges in the areas you cut out. Balance as required. If you have too much weight you can snip off pieces of the lead with heavy duty side cutters. Try to get both sides equal in weight. I shoot for the trailing edge of the stabs to droop just a degree or two. This will compensate for the weight of the epoxy when you glue the weights in. Additionally, I try to always balace AFTER the stabs have been finished as the weight of the finishing materials and glass cloth will affect the final balance. By making the lead weights this custom shape you will be able to put the weight as far forward as possible....Exactly where it is needed!
Take the stabs apart and glue in the weights with epoxy. Re-assemble the stabs and note how they balance. If you've taken your time you should be right on the money. If the stabs hang slightly nose down you can drill out the lead weights a little at a time until you're satisfied.
I hope this helps...Kevin
PS---I'm thinking about putting a dowel inside of the hollow CF stab pushrod to make it a little stiffer. I, too, will be using an 8411 for stab control.