yes the bubbles are the resin outgassing. That's what the roller is for (ALWAYS a fresh one).

if you walk away and don't roll it, the resin will bubble up and your glass will pooch out, then when you sand, all of those spots go down to bare wood....ungood.

Rolling it makes a LOT less work on the back end because you don't have to reglass the wood spots, and also gets rid of the extra weight.

I do a couple of things differently than Dean, but it's just details.

First, I mix my resin and acetone 50/50. I have no idea why people are so reluctant to do this, but they are it seems.

I also start at the rear adjuster and work out both ways. but I think I like Dean's way better for one reason: as the acetone evaporates, the mixture thickens. I'd much rather it thicken toward the nose than the tail.

I wait a few hours from laying the glass down to rub in the micro baloons. I haven't had much luck with rubbing them immediately, I always seem to move the glass for some reason. Then I have to roll it back down and that's messy...but, I may try it again because I can see where you could get better penetration and sticking of the micro baloons.

I also make sure that after the glass cures, I trim out everything..all holes, pics, everything...and just tape the adjusters and pins. Then every step I take I retape the wing tube and stab tube holes to make certain nothing builds up there. If you leave the glass in place, you tend to get a lot of bleed through into the socket which makes a nasty mess when it's time for assembly...like just a small bit of overspray and your stab tube won't go in the hole....then you have to screw with it for hours and pray you don't break your shiny new plane. It's also easier to keep all of this sanded flat and reduce build up during the priming and painting process.

As I said just details, otherwise dead on the way I have done it for years and it makes this job easy (Still a lot of sanding, but not difficult).

-Mike