you can do the priming outside at that temp, but use a foam roller and over reduce the primer by adding about 2 more parts reducer.

Use the foam roller for the first coat, it will help eliminate pinholes in both the composite parts and the glassed wood fuse. Use BVM pinhole filler on the cowl and chin.

once the primer kicks (after about 30 - 45 mins) you should be able to bring it inside and not stink up your house with a lot of fumes.

the k-36 primer really sets off a lot of urethane paint fumes when it flashes, last winter I primed a belly pan for one of the v2 I was rehabbing in my basement, I just figured since it was a small item and I wasn't spraying that it shouldn't be too bad, well I was really wrong. It's bad....

just let it flash outside, when it's dry enough to the touch, just bring it in and it shouldn't be to bad. The primer isn't that critical and you will be sanding about 85% of the first coat off anyhow.

For second coat of primer, want to spray on an even coat of k-36 reduced 50%. you just want even coverage - then sand it with 400 - wet or dry. then you will be ready for you base white.

You don't want to use more than 2 coats of primer. and you want the total thickness of primer to be as thin and even as possible....

you could actually just shoot base white after your first coat of rolled on primer.