critterhunter

Before I forget, great job on the build! Sorry to hear about the crash but sounds like she survived well. I think I read somewhere that antennas should not be inclosed by carbon fiber as it will interfer with radio signals. Might want to check up on that as I'm not sure. Might have caused your crash.

Nice info on fiberglassing from you guys. I'm going to have to give that a try for some of my foamie homemade builds.

I'd go with a computer radio right off the bat. The Parkzone/Hobbyzone complete packages were/are a great way for a newbie to get into RC. The challenger got my foot in the door, and the 27B got me further in, but when you are hooked completely it's time to go to standard RC electronics. Here's a cheapie list:

JR sx600 6 channel radio $149 (comes with RX, servos, and charger for TX battery). 10 model memory, numerous flight control configurations. I love this radio but the only thing I wish it had was the ability to link one channel to another for various mixing. For example, to have the radio automaticly adjust the elevator down a bit when the throttle is at full to prevent climbing on some planes, etc. This feature is not a must have as it's taking the place of what your fingers should be doing, but it would be nice. The radio also has dual rates, expotential, and so on. If you buy a complete new system make sure it comes with "park flyer" sized servos and not the huge ones used in gas. If you want to save more money buy a used radio alone for $60 or so. Don't worry about if it has a battery and charger or not. I get much longer run times by using Energizer 2500ma nimhs (Walmart) in a 8 AA holder (Radio Shack) installed in the battery bay. It just plugs into the radio's two pin power jack .Same style jack cordless phones batteries use, so while at Radio Shack as if you can snip a few of the junk batteries people bring in to re-cycle. Remember that JR radios have the power terminals reversed, so pay attention to the plug's polarity markings. Normaly red goes to back and vise versa. I then charge the radio off my Pirahna nimh/nicad Digital Peak charger (love it). .3 amps for a slow charger, .8 amps for a quick blast if in the field.

RX: Cheap GWS 3 channels are like $20 or less, but I'd buy a 6 channel so you can use it in other plans that require more channels than a Stryker.

ESC: $15 30 Tower Pro from United Hobbies. Work well and you can't find a cheaper price. 30 amps will cover you on most motors. Always good to have more amp ability than you use.

Might as well buy your RX from them too and save. A $15 Corona (single or dual conversion) will work well. You need a positive shift RX for JR radios, and the right crystal channel number to match your TX.

Lipos: Try the HXT 2250ma 3 cell 20C packs from them, or the new Long Max packs of the same specs. $28 for the HXT, cheaper for the Long Max. You won't find lipos any cheaper either.

Motor: 2409-12T (The "D" version is built better with the same specs) for like $10, but I'd suggest starting out with the 2408-21 (BP21) in the "T" or "D" version to get your feet wet. It'll have plenty of speed and almost unlimited verticle. The 12T has more speed and unlimited V, but it's amp draw is almost double than the BP21. BP21 on the best prop for a Stryker is the 7x6SF APC, drawing 14 to 16 amps. The 12T on a APC 8x6E is drawing close to 30 amps and red lining the motor. A 7x6SF will be less amps and still should give unlimited V.

Servos: HS81 ($15 per). Some use the metal gear versions but I don't. Some have got away with using HXT900 servos ($4 each) but they have less torque and might strip easier. I love these servos. They are perfect for things where HS81s are a bit overkill, but HS55s would be too weak. Also found on United Hobbies website as is everything else above but the radio.

Wire: 14 gauge. Plugs: Deans Ultras. Pick up motor bullet plugs for your ESC to motor wires as well.


Hope this all helps.