Originally posted by ElectRick
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What kind of paint were you planning to use? Is it enamel, polyurethane, lacquer, or what? All of these are already fuelproof by themselves. Enamel is not as resistant because it dries kind of soft. IMHO, auto parts store spray cans are not the way to go for glow powered planes anyway. If you HAVE to use them, a coat of clear polyurethane would work better and be lighter as a fuel proofer coat.
Stay with the Monokote. Anything else would be screwing up majorly.
Rick
Enamel is not fuel proof. This is especially true for Krylon. I just completed painting a big Four-Star 120 with Krylon because I read that it is at least gasoline-proof, and I'm running a gasser engine.
Well, it turns out that gasoline (or glow fuel for that matter) takes the krylon off about as fast as paint remover. Now I'm faced with having to fuel proof the entire paint job that I've spent countless hours on.
It looks to me like a thin coat of clear epoxy may be a good solution. All the clear hardware store polyurethanes state that they will cause a yellowing over very light colors, so that's right out since I have white areas on the paint job.
Besides, I would like to see some hard data to support the belief that epoxy is inherently heavier for the same cured film thickness. It is my opinion that epoxy would be no heavier than any other clear coating assuming you can apply it in the same thickness. Also, the long curing time for the epoxy should give it a superior gloss.
Finally, if the epoxy is thinned with denatured alcohol, that should make it compatible with most paints without attacking the base paint. I tried some of the clear spray polyurethane over a test sample of the Krylon and it attacked the paint severely causing very bad wrinkling.
I would spray the thinned epoxy on with a automotive type touch-up gun. Just be sure to clean the spray gun out thoroughly immediately after. Don't let the epoxy cure anywhere in the gun because it will never come out after that.