To me, that would be like purchasing food for your family with no idea of what the ingredients are - it's just labled as meeting FDA requirements.

If I spend $100 or more on a model engine I want it to give me the best performance and longest service life possible.

Would you get your car oil changed using a plain container of oil which simply says, "Oh, we're good enough?"

If a fuel manufacturer wants me to buy their product, they'll spell out exactly what the oil content and makeup is.

For break-in purposes, I wouldn't use anything under 18% total oil and it better be at least 80/20 synthetic/castor, preferably 50/50 synthetic/castor. The only major fuel manufacturer who produces a 50/50 blend with 20 or even 25% total oil is Sig.

Talk to the control line engine builders. They see LOTS of engines come in which have been run on RC fuel labled as using only "the finest ingredients". What they see is serious scoring of the crank pin, piston pin and other high load wear areas of the motor.

Key item for initial break-in (and modern engines don't require a lengthy break-in) is to keep the engine unloaded by running a prop one size smaller than recommended. Instead of a 10-6 flying prop, use a 9-6 and run the engine in short runs at a very fast 4 cycle setting. You NEVER want to fully lean a new motor out nor do you want to run an ABC or ABN engine in a blubbering slow 4 cycle.