Them dogbone (pro tires) are in my opinion NOT as good as the RTR tri pins.... I guess it depends on the type of track your running but i really like the tri pins. HOWEVER my next purchase is definately a set of LRP wheels and bowties The wheels are much wider and the tires have a lower profile. Giving much more traction and stability.

I find my stock engine to be just powerful enough to be consitently smooth with it, so for me the engine is lower down the pecking order.... i just see NO point in superfast uncontrolable speed that ends up as 90% wheel spin. Same with the shocks i find stockers perform pretty well, maybe a few different sets of springs and oil and get them dialled in nicely. Have a play also with the diff oils this can make a huge difference.

Ive opted for a few upgrades like craddock disc's, protune link setup on a allu servo horn with the pro cams and diff plate. Ive also put a support on the servo tray to stop it flexing. A few simple upgrades like changing bushes to bearings in the ackerman. CNC knuckles on standby in my spares box and finally will EVENTUALLY upgrade to cvds all round (just require the rears when i can be bothered). Im just about to swapout my radio gear for a hitec CRX/DCX with hitec servos gives some nice fine tuning options.

I dont really go for all the bling graphite and allu stuff i like the plastic shock towers the flex without permanent bending or fracturing. imo NO need for the graphite chassis tray.

At the end of the day you know the knuckles need replacing asap (althoug im still running stockers without an issue), brakes definately need seeing too and a set of LRP's. I would the just say play with oils and buy the parts you feel happy with upgrading. Yes at some point i would change the radio and engine if you want to be very competitive or you just cant get the hang of tuning that mill. Break then replace with an upgrade in my opinion unless you got spare cash.... i really want a setup station but i just cant bring myself to shelling out for 1 lol....