There would be a good deal of diference in throws if things are as the look, about 20 degrees difference when the ailerons are centered. CGr has the best idea, put in boxes for servos in each wing. My trainer was giving me fits when I discovered that the arms were wobbling around as there was no bearing on the torsque rods, just soft balsa. I drilled a #60 hole through the top of the wing right next to the L near the root and fed a jewelrs saw blade through and cut off the arms. It took a couple blades for each aileron as I kept snapping them. I then cut off the rods they exited the wing area pulled what I could from the ailerons. Then I used mini servos, one on each aileron. Worked very well. So well in fact that I'll never use another troque rod setup.

You don't need much horse power for the ailerons and a couple mini serovs will has equal or exceed the torque of a single standard. My mini's were something like 31 in/oz and my standard was 53 in/oz. I ended up with a net gain in torque in the process.

RCken pointed out the fix if you want to keep the torque rod setup. Simply bend the arms so they are at 90 degrees to the cord line of the aileron. You are lucky to catch this before things were glued together.

On the warped wood. It s dificult to get really straight wood. If you have two sticks that are warped, and about equal in the warp, you can use them to pull against each other so the result is straight. IE two warped spars, Install the upper and lower so the warp in in opossing directions to offset the warp. where you run into real trouble is with sheets that curve along edge. These need to be cut straight before using. If the wasp is along the face, then just use the two spar trick and set the upper and lower opposing each other to end up with a flat.

Don