They will fit on the fly bar but you will have to grind a groove out because of the flange
on the LOSI Balls... no big deal.. done it a bunch of times... the tricky bit is getting the hole
through the plastic fly bar correctly centered.

What I do... is drill a realllllly small hole as best as I can to the what I think is the center.
Then... once that hole is drilled I make it bigger to fit the LOSI Ball... with a larger bit
compensateing for my inaccuracies on the first "pilot" hole. ie: you are off at the
8o'clock postion off center... so you correct with the bigger bit to the 10o'clock position
for the final fit.

You said...
"My large gear where it attaches to the metal shaft stripped out the set screw yesterday. i ordered a new patch for it .I might be able to drill it out and pin it I don't know yet. I'll try to fix it."

Well that's been a sticky tricky all around for me..... I have flown plastic blades alot... they are
heavier and some thing else has to break...
The part you are talking about is the called the
"Fixing Patch for the Main Axis".... it's soft aluminum and it sucks.
You can easily strip the set screw (the barrel shaped screw the allen wrench fits).

I have a fix... but if you are going to buy one of these you might as well buy 10.

This is a fix that I use for the ones I burn out because I am a cheap SOB and I like fixing
things....

At Home Depot I bought a screw tapping set up....
You will get/buy an Irwin/Hanson 4-40NC which is a drill bit and a tapping screw.
You will also have to buy the tapping handle... total cost about $15 or less.

You will drill through the old hole through to the other side with the drill bit.
You will have to do this because because the tapping screw head won't go through
sufficently to make threads for the new set screw (barrel thingy) that you will put in.

When you drill the pilot hole for the new hole you will be making a thread in...
center as close as possible, error on the side away from the flange on the fixing plate
by a millimeter pr perfect.

OK.... your fixing plate (the aluminum plate that goes into the main plastic gear)
now has a hole perfectly drilled on the opposite side of the original hole.

Now you will tap it with the tapping screw...
If you have never tapped before... you go a little at a time... back it off... clean it
and the inside of the aluminum plate by blowing... and keep going until you get
a good clean new set of threads.

Now comes the hard part... I don't have the exact U.S. standard set screw size
but I will edit this for more info...
You will need a couple of these new U.S. size set screws because what you now will
be doing is using them to re-groove the threads you put in. And you will either need
a bunch of the little allen wrenches or grind them down as they become worn out.

You will get a hole with a U.S. set screw that will work.
But... it's not bomb proof... and sometimes there will be wobble into the main gear.

Ok... to recap...
You drill a hole through the old hole for the new screw on the opposite side.
You tap the new hole.
You use and work the new set screws (the barrell thingys) to make the tap work.
You put in a clean new set screw to secure it to the main shaft.

Well it's a lot of work... you can buy a new fixing patch plate for about $3....
Try using Lock Tite.... and most fixing patch plates don't come with the
set screw so you will wan't to order 3mm (wide) by 4mm long set screws.
3x5s work.... 3x3's are a little short but work.

Yu mentioned "pins" in your post.... and anybody else that has a hack that will work
please let me now... "pin" probably won't do it.
You might be able to super glue the screw in .... but one of the hardest things to do
is remove that main gear from the shaft once it's scraped up or got funky...
The main shaft has to be super clean to remove it through and out of the body of the
helicopter. Even though these are inexpensive helicopters the tolerances the main shaft
goes through are very tight.