With engines, fuels and this hobby.....everything is a compirmise If it gets too difficult....well profit suffers. So there is a tendancy to make it more user friendly and easy so that something like fuels, oils and breakin are not scary and confusing.

Even with tolerances being closer and beter metals used in engines, there are a few things that have not changed. Friction in a new engine is going to be more than in an engine that has been broken in, thats a constant....more friction = more heat, and not just higher engine operating temps, localized heating of certian components.

Picture this, the moment that ingition takes place in an engine, the piston is accelerating, the rod is under compression and the pressure is felt at the small end on a very small surface area and the large end on a somewhat bigger area in comparasion. Oil tends to squeeze out, now with the parts being new, there is more friction and heat. You want an oil that sticks in there and does not squese out and or allow metal to metal contact.

I know how hard castor oil is to clean up, it tends to stick to everything, which is a good thing for breaking in engines. Also in addition if things get too hot in one area castor does not leave the scene and forms a varnish that like a calus on your hand stays there to protect the parts. I guess one could say when the going gets tough, well castor just gets tougher.

I break all of my engines on minimum of 50% castor and 50% klotz at a total content of 25%-28%. If I use Omega, I will add a considerable amount of castor to the mix prior to breakin. I add 4 oz of castor to Omega as a normal fuel once the engine is broken in.

More lube during breakin will not hurt anything and castor has the ability to protect the engine parts if things get rough.....

Thats what I do....everyone has a different decision to make and there is no wrong decision

Richard