Srekar,
Yeah , I'd put more primer on that. My goal with primer is to be able to block sand the final coat and not cut through anywhere. Yes, you want it thin but you also want it to be uniform. Paint doesn't fill or "hide" as well as primer does. My guess is if you painted what you have there, you'd be dissapointed. Don't rush it. Put more primer on and block sand each coat. If you find that you sand through in only a few spots you can spot repair with an airbrush and feather in the edges before you apply the first coat of paint. The goal is to NOT use a lot of paint so reduce it more than you would if you were painting a full scale car. This will allow you to run a little bit lower pressure at the gun and still get good atomization while applying LIGHT coats of paint. You should be using a gun with a fairly large fluid tip for the primer (1.5 - 1.7mm) but you want to use one with a smaller tip for the color (1.0 - 1.2mm). If you use a large tip for the color you'll end up with heavy coats of paint no matter what you do. Only put on enough paint to cover and hide. If you're going to wet sand each color (like I do) then put on one additional coat once you see a uniform finish. I like to apply a white base first - maybe 2 coats all over (very thin wet film thickness) then an additional coat or two on the areas that will stay white. This is important if your spraying red or yellow over gray primer since those colors are semi transparent. Wet sand this then apply your first color. Pull the tape off ASAP. Let that color harden and wet sand it - pay close attention to the tape edge. You want that as thin as possible but don't cut through! Repeat as necessary. Try to avoid using clear (it's heavy) but if you must, try to lay it on really smooth so that you won't need to do a lot of sanding / polishing. I'll post some pic's of my V2.2 in the V2 thread real soon. I just painted it with Nelson (water-based) Urethane. A little different than the PPG stuff but the results are similar.

John Pavlick