This is great advice, but there is one thing that Evolution engines owners need to be aware of.

Removing the pin alone may not be enough.

The blue collar that is affixed with a grub screw will also prevent the needle from being turned beyond the limiter.

The reason for this is that when you turn the needle not only does it rotate ( hitting the stop, which removing the pin fixes... ) but it also moves "in" as the needle uses screw threads...

The blue collar prevents this "inward" movement.

So you should also loosen the grub screw and remove the blue collar, even if you only do this temporarily.

Usually you will then find that the collar is almost impossible to remove!!!

Why?

The grub screw "digs" into the soft metal needle valve, and it raises a burr or ridge. In turn this catches on the aluminum collar preventing any movement...

You can work the collar off by carefully prying it up a bit at a time.

Once you have it off, get the engine tuned.

Once you have it tuned, turn the HS needle IN another 1/2 to 3/4 turn exactly, and put the collar back on, as far down as it will go, and re-affix via the grub screw.

Then turn the needle back out to how you had it.

Now should you ever need to remove the HS needle, you can merely bottom it out and back it out that 1/2 to 3/4 turn. This makes it easy to retune the plane later.

While you are at this, bend the HS "clip" in to provide more friction as otherwise the needles on this engine tend to walk.

Note that the collar business also applies to the LS needle too!

I wish Evolution would redesign their engines to do away with these "safeguards"...