wether the wing bolts on or bands on doesn't make much difference in flight, if it's done correctly. It's your job, as the builder, to spread the loads the bolts will impose over enough of the wing and fuse to keep things strong. THat usually means installing a bolt plate in the wing, thu which the bolts go, that is strongly bonded to the wing structure. Likewise, the block that the bolt threads into must be strongly mounted to the fuse, in a manner in which it will not concentrate stress too much. Usually the wing saddle area is doubled anyway, providing good strength. I have both high wing and low wing planes I've convereted for bolt on wings.

In my mustang, I used a 3 bolt system, 2 bolts forward, 1 aft. I installed a spruce block in the front bottom of the wing, inset into the centre rib, and extending to the next rib in each direction, where it is again inset and glued full lenght to the landing gear block in the wing. In the rear, I installed a similar block, again securely braced to available ribs (actually this is in the 'stang's radiator bulge). In the plane, I installed maple blocks that span the fuse. Securely notched and epoxied to the fuse doublers of the wing saddle. Threaded the maple blocks to take 1/4-28 nylon bolts, hardened with CA.

In my high wing Aquastar 1/2a seaplane, I set 2 dowels in the LE, with matching holes drilled in the fuse former over top of the windshield. In the rear, I installed a maple block, as in the mustang, and a plywood plate recessed into the top of the wing's TE. A pair of nylon bolts join it all up. 1 would have been enough, but for some reason I used 2 bolts.

J