Hey guys, I'm working on an SS tuning guide. I have the basics done, and I'll soon be working on the Race Setup portion. If you see anything that needs to be changed, or to add something, please email me. Thanks.

email: [email protected]

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The Unofficial HPI RS4 SS Track and Tuning Guide v0.1
By Miker
[email protected]

** If you break something because of what this guide says. It is Not my fault. **

I. Starting Out
II. Start Up Accessories
III. Engine Break-In thru the first Gallon
IV. Basic Tuning Guide
a. 2-speed
b.
V. 10 Hop-Ups that are Necessities
a. Clutch
b. Shock Oil
c. After Run Oil
d. Ball Ends
e. Exhaust
f. Battery Pack
g. Fuel Filter
h. Air Filter
i. Tires
j. Throttle Return Spring / fail Safe
VI.



Starting out:

Before you start, the first thing you need to do is pull out the kit addendum, and make notes in the manual where changes have been made. Trust me, this will save you a lot of time and headaches later. Also before you start the kit, invest in some blue loc-tight and a good RC grade grease. The amounts supplied in the kit are not sufficient enough to properly set up your kit.

The instructions that come with the kit are really second to none when it comes to building an RC. Just take your time, and follow them carefully to avoid costly mistakes, which will lead to tedious disassembly in the future.

Main Points to watch when you build the kit:

1. Make sure you put the O-Rings in the dog bones. This helps get rid of a lot of the play in the shaft system, and for some reason a lot of people overlook this step.

2. Take note of the direction of how the 2-speed is installed. This can easily be installed backwards.

3. Make sure you change the spring in the 2-speed assembly.

4. Any part that is “Metal to Metal” use loc-tight. With the exception of the 2-speed tuning screw.

5. Make sure your flywheel is on nice and snug. If not, your on your way to a new collet. Collets SUCK to install.

6. Loc-tight your Chassis -> Engine mount screws, and torque those buggers in. Check for gear mesh alignment. This will save your spur gears from getting stripped.

7. Make sure your turnbuckles are all identical in length. If your fronts/rears are even 1mm different it’ll cause a pull in your steering.


Star-Up Accessories:

Your going to need a radio, receiver, batteries, 2 servo’s, glow plug starter, and glow fuel. [This is all covered in the wonderful HPI manual] May I suggest that you don’t skim on this part. At the least, the JR XR2, but the JR XR3 is worth the 30$ upgrade. These are well rounded and affordable solutions. Both support multiple RC’s, and allow for digital adjustments (No damn knobs) to your settings. Anything less than a XR2 won’t do your driving justice, and anything more than the XR3 will be overkill, but is a good investment to “Grow Into”.

The servos that come with these sets will do fine to start, but I recommend upgrading these in the future to Metal Gear Servos with at least the following stats:

Steering: .15 / 60oz
Throttle / Brake: .15 / 60oz

Recommended

Steering: .12 / 80oz
Throttle / Brake: .15 / 60oz

Good servos will carry on with you from car to car, so if you can spend a few extra bucks now, you’ll thank me later. Hi-tec’s are a good choice and come in many flavors of plugs for compatibility. Again, upgrading your servo’s is not necessary to start, the included servos in most kits will be fine at the beginning.

Buy rechargeable battery packs. Just do it. No questions. Look under parts for recommendations.

Get a glow plug igniter that has a volt gauge on the top of it. They usually run 2 – 3$ more, but this will save a lot of headaches if you have a bad plug, or bad starter battery.

Glow Fuel: *sigh* This is a touchy subject. Unless you have enough experience to know otherwise, select a quality nitro car fuel. Find a brand that is reputable, and is easily available. Most racers Suggest (in no particular order) O’Donnell, Blue Thunder, and Wildcat, but other brands may be fine. Check with your LHS or HPI if your not sure.

Glow Fuel Bottle: Get a good one that is air tight, and looks durable. Nothing sucks more than nitro stains on your carpet. No, Blue Thunder doesn’t come out with Oxy Clean, ask my girlfriend.


Engine Break-In thru First Gallon:

** Warning: I Hold no responsibility if you break something **

Break-in on the SS is pretty straight forward. HPI includes an engine tuning sheet to give you great instructions on the break-in. However, instead of idling through the first few tanks, I recommend tapping the throttle slowly to get some heat built up in the engine. The sleeve in these engine is hard and needs some heat to help it break in, idling doesn’t let this Happen.

Keep in mind, this engine will take almost a full gallon to start to fully break in. Every SS owner will agree, it’s worth the wait. At first, don’t get discouraged if the engine is a bit of a pain in the ass to tune. Just take your time, and watch the temperature. As soon as you get past 1 gallon, you’ll be introduced to the world of single pull starts, and never touching the carb settings ever again.

Temperature: Get a good probe, and you take temperature on the heat sink around the glow plug. If you call HPI, they will tell you to run the engine around 270(f). I recommend to tune it to be at 250-260(f) to give room for error for peak performance. If you’re a wimp, and just out bashing 220 is the lowest I’d shoot for, and at 220, don’t be surprised if it runs like *beep*. Outside temp might vary your engine temp, so if you tune your engine on a day that it is 60(f) outside, make sure you extra check it on those hot summer days. Actually, you should get in the habit of checking it every time you run, period, no excuses.

If you have questions about your engine, and why it isn’t running the way you think it should. DON’T COPY SOMEONE ELSES CARB SETTINGS! Just because I can run at 2 turns and be fine, doesn’t mean you can. Call HPI if your unsure, take the car to your LHS, or consult local bashing expert. Do it right the first time, and your engine will last a long time.

The HPI .12 SS is made for HPI by OS. This is a QUALITY Engine, with an excellent temper. It’ll last quite a few gallons if you treat it well, so take care of it.

Basic Tuning Guide:

2-Speed

More people have trouble with the 2-Speed than any other part on this car. The 2-Speed is a bit of a trouble maker, but once you tame the beast, it’s so simple to maintain and control you’ll desire the sound
of it clicking in, the puff of smoke, and burst of speed that follows.

First, FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. Make sure everything is installed right, you switched the spring, and you have the shift set screw to the stock position (3 turns out). The first time you run your car, don’t be surprised if your car doesn’t shift. Your engine isn’t revving as high as it needs to, thus not engaging the 2 speed clutch. Don’t mess with the 2-speed until you know the engine is operating at full temperature.

If it still doesn’t shift, slowly turn the adjust screw counter clockwise until you hit a shift. Making sure you get your engine temp up to running temp each test run.

*NOTE* If after repeated tries, your still not shifting, take the 2-speed apart to make sure you have it assembled properly. Excessive runs at high speed, especially on a new engine, can cause damage. So go easy on the test runs.

*NOTE* You WILL know when the 2-speed kicks in. If you only “THINK” it is kicking it, then it is not. Trust me.

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