10 Hop-Ups that are Necessities:

1. Performance clutch: I almost recommend installing this while building the kit, and scrap the stock shoes all together. But, if you install this clutch improperly, it can make breaking in a pain in the ass, so only upgrade out of the box if you know what your doing.

*Note* Cutting off 1 level is recommended tuning point

Part Number: A885
Manufacture: HPI
Cost: < 10$
Importance: 10 of 10

2. Shock Oil: Scrap the stock *beep* that comes with the kit. I don’t know what it is, but lets be honest, it sucks. Invest in a good set of 35 / 40 / 45 weight oils, and don’t be afraid to experiment. 40 is recommended to start. I run 40 / 45. [fr / bk] Trinity is most likely the best with team associated being acceptable, but stay away from OFNA oil, it breaks down real quick, and doesn’t last more than a few runs.

Part Number: 7640
Manufacture: Trinity
Cost: < 5$
Importance: 8 of 10

3. After Run Oil: Put a few drops in the carb, or a few in the glow plug hole after you are done running for the day. Pull the starter 3 – 4 times. This keeps the engine happy, and will keep the engine lubed for the next time you fire it up. This helps prevent premature wear. 1 bottle will last forever.

Part Number: HCAP3000
Manufacture: Hobbico
Cost: < 5$
Importance: 10 of 10

4. Ball Ends: The Stock HPI Ball ends will break on you. They are weak, and easily snap. RPM makes great replacements, they come in multiple colors, and are direct replacements. *Note* These are slightly larger, so make your length measurements from cup to cup.

Part Number: 73378
Manufacture: RPM
Cost: < 5$
Importance 8 of 10

5. Tuned Exhaust: The plastic thing HPI gives you that they call a “Tuned Exhaust” is more like a 2-Stroke ka-zoo. Research possible upgrades, because they are constantly entering the market. Most people’s first reaction is to get the CVEC pipe. I recommend avoiding the CVEC pipe. First, they are not race legal. Second, you have to cut a huge body hole to fit it through. Third, they are uber-expensive. And finally, they are more show than go.

Recommended Pipes: RB Concepts, Paris Ring, RC10GT (RPM or TORQUE), Fantom

*Note* The HPI uses right side exhaust, please note position of exhaust pressure fitting.

Part Number: Various
Manufacture: Various
Cost: aprox. 30$
Importance: 7 of 10

6. 6v Battery pack: Save your money on buying pack after pack of Duracell’s. Get a 6v NiMah Rx battery pack. This will give your servos better performance, (over 4 rechargeable in a square) and save you money in the long run.

*Note* Check your Servos and RX to make sure they are 6v compatible. Order battery with proper connector for your RX.

Part Number: 1100 NiMah 5 cell 6v (T-Maxx Pack)
Manufacture: CheapBatteryPacks.com
Cost: $10
Importance: 7 of 10

7. Fuel Filter: This will keep the *beep* that can end up in your fuel tank out of your engine. Cheap insurance.

Part Number: 340
Manufacture: Dubro
Cost: 3$
Importance: 9 of 10

8. Air filter: High flow air filter will both give your engine a fresh breath of air, and also do a better job of keeping dirt out of the engine. I also recommend buying a handful of filters and filter re-oil. Old filter clean up nice with soap and water, and filter oil will help it stay sticky and attract smaller particles, and hold onto them. WD-40 will also work, but filter oil seems to do a better job.

*Note* I like the 10/11mm T-Maxx 45degree motor saver the best. The reason is, it moves the filter away from the engine which will help it collect colder and cleaner air. Also, it fits a little more snug. The idle adjust screw will get in the way, take an exacto knife and shave a VERY THIN sliver off the filter base to get it to fit.

Part Number: 1060
Manufacture: Motor Savers
Cost: < 15$
Importance: 9 of 10

9. Tires: You can stick with rubber tires, but only if you’re a parking lot basher. If you do stick with rubber, HPI V’s are the best unglued rubber tires you can get. If you want pre mounted on rims, Medial Pros are hard to beat. Unfortunately, the Medials aren’t race legal, so don’t waste your cash if you plan on racing.

Even if you’re a parking lot basher, please consider foam tires. I have ran through many pairs of foam and rubber tires, and foams will last you just as long. They require a little more care, but overall it is well worth it. The grip and control you receive, can’t be match by rubber. Period. If your racing, or plan on racing, foams are a must!

I run, Purple / Purple [fr / bk] but purple / dbl purple is the most common setup you’ll see. You can mix and match foams to get the best results. Your best bet is to talk to your LHS for the best set-up for their track. Either way I recommend the TRC 26mm.

Part Number: Various
Manufacture: Various
Cost: 12$ – 20$
Importance: 7 of 10

10. Throttle return spring / Fail-Safe

One day you’ll be running, and next thing you know, you’ll no longer be in control of your ride… That is until it hits a curb at “WOT”. Invest in a throttle return spring, they cost 1$ and are so easy to install. I have even heard rumors of people who used a ballpoint pen springs. Reguardless of how you do it, You’ll thank me later.

However, a TRS won’t help you when somone jumps on your Freq. And starts racing their car around. A fail safe is a cheap investment at only 30$ and will give you some added insurance. Be aware, they do draw power, and add unnecessary weight, but overall it is minimal. *NOTE* A failsafe is NOT a replacement for a TRS!!

Part Number: Various
Manufacture: various
Cost: 0$ - 30$
Importance 10 of 10