ORIGINAL: fox6
Hey Tom,
I guess it is just as easy to ask you here than bug you on the phone. I am that annoying guy in Ohio who just bought a Honda Suk 50cc and my buddy an extra. Have some mercy, this is only my second plane that runs on liquid so my experience with setup is pretty much restricted to electric or nitro helis. Couple of build questions:
1.) I got the 5945 servo package and have no idea as to what crank arm for the rudder I should use
2.) Is there any template that exists for cutting out the cowl for cylinder, plug wire, and stock TOC 3MM muffler? Would hate to screw up a beautiful cowl
3.) Can you recommend what batteries and how many I should use (TOC 3MM, 5945s, JR 9 channel, 1 rudder servo).
4.) How many switches do I need, I bought the MPI that has a battery level indicator along with charging port. Do I need one for the ignition battery as well or can I pigtail them into one switch?
That should be enough to keep me puzzled for awhile. Thanks again for your great product and service.
Fox6.
here is some info that may help you,
for the rudder I would use an aluminum 3" Double arm from the likes of SWB or Airwild no offset necessary.Tom Carries this
Easiest way to Guarantee you cut the cowl right is to remove the cowl and tape some stiff paper to the fuse back far enough that if you put the cowl back on it clears the tape line where you attached the paper to the fuse with tape. also make sure you tape the paper in place so that it folds back out of the way. now with the cowl off mark out all your cut lines on the paper, cut out the paper for a template and remove engine. Reinstall Cowl and fold paper back over cowl and Voila, Just trace your template you just made and should be fine.
You can use any of the following Batteries ... Lipoly 7.4 v with a regulator ( Heavy ) Nicad or Nimh 4.8 - 6v no reg , or A123 Li-on no reg (requires special charger) I think tom Carries the A123 and you can get a good charger from FMA Direct ( cellpro 4 ). as far as number of batteries goes I would stick with one batt and one switch each for the receiver and ignition. some people double up on the receiver batts and switches for redundancy but I just make sure I have a switch that fails on and use 2 leads into the receiver to split the amp draw across 2 connectors
hope this helped
Oh also, on the engine mounting if you are using blind nuts make sure to loctite the bolts. also to double check your engine mounting put the cowl on and observe if the engine shaft is centered in the cowl opening, easier to do with Spinner on. If it looks ok to you than just leave it if its off you gonna have to re-do it , in which case I would pulg the holes with hardwood dowels and trim them flush with firewall and this time use through bolts with Nylock nuts for safety.