RE: GMS Engine Tuning Problem
If I had a tach and had kept some records, then I could share some data with you, but unfortunately, I have neither. I can only tell you of my own experiences with them. My 47, I ran from new on 10% Sig Champion and a few other 10% blends. It kept on getting better and better, long after it 'should' have been run in. I tried a few different plugs during this time, not through blowing them but just because I like to experiment. The best plugs I found were Model Technics Max Flash plugs made in England. These things lasted the distance and performed their job exceptionally well. The OS plugs are easier to get, which is why I use them. I plan to order some hot Model technics M6 & M7 plugs soon.
Several months ago, I switched to 0% FAI fuel (due to it being cheaper) and have never looked back. I don't know why I ever bothered with nitro (except for my 1/2A engines). I knew that the 0% needed higher compression, and so I gradually removed head shims. The 47 would run with all 3 shims on 0%, but it wouldn't idle or transition well, so out came some shims. Performance improved, but it still died at idle, so in went hotter plugs. Eventually I settled on what I have now - 1 thick shim and a hot plug. Most of this testing was done at the field, tuning up in the pits prior to a flight. Deadstick? take out a shim and fly. Bad idle or transition? try a bigger prop. Idles well, but wont make full revs? change the plug.
A lot of this went on. But something that all people should take note of - what worked for me didn't always work for other GMS .47 owners (there's a few of them at my club). Many other factors came into play, like fuel tank set up and height (filter or no filter), cowled or uncowled, drilled or undrilled carb, rear needle valve or carb mounted NV etc. Another major was prop selection. I found that on finer pitched props, I got better performance and easier starting by going to a cooler plug.
Please be aware that I am no expert when it comes to glow engines. These are just my own experiences. A year ago, I was flying a trainer, and I have crashed a few 'second planes' since then. But, I am a good listener (to the old guys at the club), and I dont have a problem with stripping an engine right there at the field. I have said to other guys that I see are having tuning problems 'why not take a shim out' or 'why not change the prop'. They say 'OK, i'll get in on the bench at home and try that'. The next weekend, I'll ask them how it went, and they say they didn't get a chance to do it, and their engine is still running badly. Or they got it going well on the bench, but once it's back in the plane, it still runs like a dog. I'm a big advocate of 'field testing'. While the other guys are gasbagging about the latest ARF, I'll have the head off. Eventually they wander over and say stuff like " Gee, that's a lot of work to be doing at the field". I say "If I don't do it now, it'll be another week before I know if the changes are any good ot not".
The bottom line is that you need to test suff for yourself and arrive at your own ideal setup.