OK, come on now david, this is a DZ again... No idle air bleed. Just a pump and HS needle. Back in the corner for you! hahaha, hope you have a sense of humor, I'm just playin.

I agree with the assessment on the click, all DZ engines have a very distinctive click when turning the shaft by hand. Not an issue (usually). I would recommend replacing your glow plug, they foul quickly when breaking in an engine due to the rich settings used for break-in and the metal particles that break loose during the run-in procedure. Try and get it running again and see what happens. I'm wondering about your plumbing on the engine. Let me run through a proper setup, and you can compare it to yours. Starting with the YS clunk in the tank, the fuel draw line should run forward to the engine and connect to the bottom nipple on the pump housing. There should also be a fuel line running from the top nipple on the pump housing to the nipple on the front side of the carb (between the air intake tube and the crankcase). Then there should be a fuel line running from the nipple on the back of the carb to the check valve on the top of the head. There should then be one more tube running from the nipple on the front of the pump housing to the nipple above the crankshaft in front of the cam housing (Did I use the word nipple enough in that description). Now, for the vent line of the tank, it should run to somewhere outside the fuselage and have either a one-way check valve which allows flow into the tank only, or utilize some sort of "P-trap" type of routing to prevent fuel spillage. That's it! Once you have checked the fuel setup and the glow plug, if you still can't get it to run, you may need to flush out the pump. Every 170 I have seen break in required this to be done after the first couple of runs. The problem goes away after this (for no apparent reason). Hope this helps. Keep us posted!