The esc can't be programmed.
You'll need this to run 3s:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRHU6&P=7

That's not the shaft i'm talking about. I'm talking about the PROPELLER shaft. The one that attaches the prop to the u-joint.

If you feel like doing a little work, then get these:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...oct-oc130L-24c
Octura flex hex 1/8" to .130

Something like this:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=grp-2317.40
Might be a bit big, though.

This would be better:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=octsb-x438

Brass tube for the flex cable:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...dh-ks-brass-tb

get the 1/4". Or you could get some at your LHS.

You'll need to follow the guide on OSE on how to join the flex cable to the prop shaft and buy your own glue ($10) or pay them to do it ($10). If you might be doing more like this, just buy the glue. Basically, the flex cable install will be VERY straight forward. It will be stronger, smoother turning, and have less friction than the stock setup. It will also not leak water at all if you put fuel tubing over the brass tubing and have it hang onto the flex cable just in front of the motor.

One of these will also be necessary:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...p?prod=boc-18T

Goes between the motor and flex hex coupler. It reduces the strain on the endbell of the motor GREATLY. Reducing friction, increasing rpm, more power, blah blah blah.

You don't NEED to do any of this, but it certainly wouldn't hurt.

While you're at it, this wouldn't hurt:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...t-oc6str-130da