Dang!

I hate it when that happens. I had just elaborated on some issues and accidentally hit enter - wham! post gone!

Rafa, I was in the process of making some comments re your 10 size build. Maybe I'll get back to it later. In any case, great news! Please, do start a build thread when you get started. In answer to your question, here's the gist of what I was on to:

Anhedral:

or "Cathedral" as was used by Dick Hanson. Here's a good question for designers. In fact it would be a good question for Dick and Dave Brown as they made many tests with the Tipo and anhedral angles. People flying the 60 size here might have some comments too (e.g., 8178). Hanno Prettner would also be a good person to ask . It'd be interesting to hear their thoughts on angles for the reduced scales.

Based on scaling and Dick's comments regarding angles, pipes and yaw effect, here are the dimensions:

Tipo 60:

under belly pipe: 4.25" (note that GP recommends 4-3/8" > 4-1/4" in their kit... probably for "coolness" effect)

side or no pipe: 2.00"

Tipo 40 (scaled):

under belly pipe: 3.66"

side or no pipe: 1.72"

Tipo 20 (scaled):

under belly pipe: 3.14"

side or no pipe: 1.48"

Tipo 10 (scaled):

under belly pipe : 2.62"

side or no pipe: 1.23"

I would think that anhedral of between 1.20" and 1.25" on the 10 would be OK for your muffled .15. In fact, what would be really cool is to make a couple of stabs with different angles, cutting them short and mounting them with a CF rod through the fuse allowing you to experiment with different angles. Better yet would be a "variable anhedral" stab with a flat section at the fuse side and 3 or 4 anhedral wedges placed, in turn, between the stab and the fuse . Needless to say, maybe this is getting a little fancy with a model of this size.

Watch out in the fin post area. An option would be to laminate 1/16" sheeting to make this span the thickness of the rudder prior to applying the fin sheeting. You would end up with a 5 layer laminate of 1/16" at the back of the fin (3/16" for the post and 2/16" for the sheeting). I think all you need is 1/16" between the fuse sides at the rear to arrive at a rudder thickness of 5/16" using 1/8" fuse sides. I would also build a hatch out of the fuse front bottom to facilitate access to the engine, retract and fuel (methanol or lithium ). 1/4" balsa is appropriate for the 10 for the 1/2" balsa areas on the 60. Note that, in general, for the 10 using wood of 1/2 the scale used in the 60 works out nicely.

'nough said. I had some other thoughts re radio installation but, alas, they've evaporated! [:@]

Keep us posted! David.