ORIGINAL: BobMaine
ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
NO, none of my latest Saitos have the spring and none is needed.
I have a new Saito 1.00 and it has a spring in the throttle arm area. When I go to turn the LSNV the plastic arm will move in, the rpms will change and sometime the engine stalls. Is this the spring you say is not needed?
Thanks,
Bob
ORIGINAL: BobMaine
Saito 100 still shaking. Badly. So bad it is destroying the electronics in the plane. Found the wire to the satellite receiver broken yesterday. Have put about five gallons through the engine. Shaking occurs only at 5000 rpm plus or minus a couple of hundred. Have adjusted/tweaked the NVs many times, (also burned my fingers on the muffler many times), switched props several times, changed glow plugs, tried different fuels, checked the O rings in the intake pipe, checked all bolts for tightness, pulled the "O" ring out of the velocity stack, considering burning incense to the Saito gods next, etc.
I'm not sure why one has to pay top dollar for an engine then have to spend another $100 plus on fuel, props, plugs to (try to) get it to run right...
Do you think I need to replace the bearings in this NEW engine?
Is there a "lemon law" for Saitos?
Is there suppose to be an O ring in the velocity stack? Why does the VS ship without one? Is the bottom of the VS suppose to sit tightly on the carb, mine has a gap? Make any difference? You can see I am grasping at straws here... Will consider any kind of advice short of throwing the Saito in the ocean even specific incense.
Not sure if your problem is similar to the problem i had and then I cured
My plastic throttle arm was moving up and down when the engine was on tick over and tuning was erractic
Investigation showed that the short screw which acts as the throttle stopper had sheered off its pointy part and this allowed the whole carberator barrel to float around up and down and cuase the fuel to be surging and make it impossible to tune engine properly
I did not have a replacement carberator screw stopper
I think its a 2.5mm with the threads removed at the point down to something like 2mm wide to fit in the carberator barrel track so I was forced to make my own from another 2.5mm bolt and file down the thread to fit the barrel
It took several attempts but since then the barrel dosn't float and tuning is now correct
The point breaks very easy so springy type gas connectors can help reduce the strain on the gas stopper bolt
Hope that helps
Balsaeater