ORIGINAL: BERUSTY
Dirty Birdy Build...
The following posts are to provide additional perspective about the historically relevant Joe Bridi, Dirty Birdy. The work was completed the Fall of 2006.
My kit is from the last remnants of Joe's inventory featuring the built-up wing. I sent the wing plans, root and tip ribs to the new owners (circa 2006) of WING Manufacturing, to create a set of foam wings. WING, I believe, is now in Michigan and should therefore, have the wings available?
The photos show how I prefer to mount retracts (conventional) using a light plywood box which is glued into the wing prior to sheeting. The design provides for using the top sheeting, bottom sheeting and the foam to provide a significant amount of strength with weight LESS than a conventional 1/4" plywood plate and dowels. It is very important that the "box" fit very snugly for the most strength and least amount of glue. I add a 3" square piece of 3/4 ounce glass closth on the top and bottom of the box, between the sheeting prior to the sheeting process.
The cut-outs are made using 1/8" light ply templates and Sam Turner's KISS System...good luck finding this must have little gadget. The retracts are EZ- Supra for .60 size models from Central Hobbies. The 5/32 piano wire struts will be replaced with titanium versions also from Central Hobbies...much lighter.
Scheduled work shop time October 2008 - November 2008.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
An even better solution to the KISS is the Hot Knife. This is a simple handle with a 5" long rod that gets heated hot enough to melt foam. You only need to work from one side of the foam and really don't need templates. A 12V 1A supply is required to drive it. If I remember right, I bought it from CST.
It's nothing more than a length of nichrome wire, insulated with ceramic insulation and inserted into a 1mm stainless tube. The distal end of the tube is crimped directly onto the NiCr. The proximal end's insulation is passed through the tube without grounding out. That's the trick. The electrical connection is made between the proximal end of the NiCr and the stainless tube, to complete the circuit. Extremely simple idea and extremely functional
MattK
MattK