Well guys I am ahead of you coz I have built and flown mine. Some of my observations are.

1. The built up tail is essental if you want to do 3d ( this is what the aircraft is designed for ) The location of tail is diffrent for both tails. The sheeted one looks more like a sensation type tail with very little percentage of elevator. The location of the built up one will give a much tighter turning moment, and it alot lower on the fuz enhancing knife edge

2. The tail when it came off the building board felt quite flexy, so I cross braced it across all the rib sections, now very strong.

3. The wing diheadreal is set at 32mm at the end rib if the other wing is set flat on the building board. I can confirm that the knife edge is very good with very little Aileron correction.

4. The undercart is crap... Do your self a favour and put a carbon one on. A small note is that most retro carbon gear is designed to fit on the bottom of the fuz. remember that the gear is set an inch from the bottom of the fuz, if you screw that then you will lose the prop clearance.

5. Make sure you have some powerfull servos on the rudder and elevator, I am running Hitec 605mg's, and I am using HS525mg's for Ailerons, an HS 81mg for thottle, all on 6V.

6. Motor selection, put the YS63 in it. Its pumped, loads of power, torque, which is what you need on an aircraft like this. prop selection is 13 x 6 to 13 x 4. The lower pitch makes prop hanging touque rolling easier. I can knife edge loop mine on 1/2 power. i am sure that an OS 46fx and alike will work well but it will distroy the flying qualities/Subtleties. Also you will get a C of G shift as the fuel burns off.

7. The elevator servo is in the wrong location. It has been moved to accomodate the rudder servo on the other side. I have build mine as the kit and I have found the geometry to be slightly out, give not exactly the same amount of though up and down on full deflection. The answer is to move the rudder servo to the cockpit and use a closed loop and move the elevator servo. All the linkages are 3mm rod.

8. I have made now real changes to the kit other than this and the aircraft ready to fly came out at 4.5lbs.

9. Flying, still playing with the setup but this was my impressions after the first day of flying

Seduction FS first flights,

What can I say but WOW…. . Covering is in Profilm white and chrome red. The all up dry weight is 4.5lbs; this was without any special weight saving going on. The YS has been nicely run in on the Kyosho Majestic.

The weather was cold about 3 degrees C, 2 - 5mph wind. So range check etc. all ok, set low rates and off. The plane needed three clicks of right aileron and it tracked spot on hands off. I had set the c of g at the revised position, if you have the kit you will see an amendment sheet. A few circuits and check out the roll, very axial, the loop tracked dead straight. The vertical required a little rudder correction. So with the rates off, the rudder is mighty powerful. A stall turn was tried and the aircraft all but stops on the power of the rudder and turns on its axis with no coupling. Then some knife-edge, There was some pitching toward the canopy, this will be easily corrected though so some mixing on the trani or some playing of the c of g required. Then a knife-edge loop, no problems just hold it on the elevator and ailerons so as to force it round. All very easy and on ˝ power. Then for some spins, flat, inverted with very little lose of height. The some snaps all easy and controllable. Then I thought I should test the slow speed handling. I had it hovering in a 5 mph breeze, when I lifted the nose the wing tips started to wag in true 3d style. Then for a prop hang, all no trouble, just hold the nose up with the rudder.

Landing was dead easy just line it up power back, with the 13 X 6 prop the braking effect is tremendous, pull the nose up and perfect 3 pointer at walking pace. Later flight I discovered that I could flat spin and flick to inverted then back agian on just the rudder, no input from other controls and all at a little over idle. If you up the power the spin is just faster and you start to assend, the knife edge spin was tried, with similar effects, the lost of height was very low. I then tried a stall turn around the 270 degrees and off on the knife edge. Then for some knife edge figure eights, like cubans but without the roll, all on half power and easy, realy looks good.

Conclusion is that I will get another kit if this one dies (dam right). I would highly recommend it to any one after a 40 size free style aeroplane. it is not a fast flying aircraft, if you want one of these then get a patern ship. No this is all about power weight ratio, thrust and acceleration, this why the YS 63 is great for the job, generating it power at 11500 rpm , you fly right on the power band. The c of g could still go further back even from the revised position

Kris