ORIGINAL: Punkin1
Hello Jeff ( allthegoodnamesaretaken),
I'm also building a DB .60 I purchased from GS Hobbies ( Joe Bridi ) about 5 years ago. I'm going back to kit building, I lost a Yak 54 by Aerworks, i didn't hook up the ailerons leads. My stupidity.
I have been looking at your articles on the DB and I like the way you are going about it. I like the photos. I'm in the process of glueing the fuel tank upper block and the bulkheads to the upper fuse slab. I'm sticking to the plans with the exception of using Robart retracs. I woul like to paint it but fuel proof paint is hard to come by. I will use film.
I have 3 Rossi .60 engines, one side & 2 rear. I'll be using the side exhuast with a Nelson hipo muffler.
In looking at the pics ,you furnished, there are some that are missing. I can't find them any more. The ones I can't find is the one where the fuel tank slab and the fuse top slab are shown, It is a frontal shot. The glue that you are using (TiteBond II blue ), doesnt this glue warp balsa? So far i have been using epoxy for glueing the fuselage sides & joiners.
I would like to take pics as I go along.
My next project is a Career .60, a copy of the Curare by Mutchlers Hobbies. It has a glass fuse. After that I will build a Double Eagle .60 from scratch.
I'm staying away from ARFS IMAC type birds.
Ben Cubillos
Hello Ben.
Titebond can warp wood if you use a lot of glue and don't clamp/weight/pin the structure. One thing to keep in mind when using that type of glue is that it's water based, and the water can/will expand the wood and cause warps when doing sheeting etc. But if you clamp/weight/pin then once the water evaporates and the glue dries, the structure will not be affected.
I rarely use CA anymore. I find the Titebond gives me lots of time to make sure everything is lined up and where I want it. It's slower, but I find I'm more accurate with alignment and parts fit.
BTW, I plan on glassing the fuse and tail with 3/4oz cloth and painting with Klasskote. The wings will be Monokote.
Regards