Hey Chris! Yep I'm playing the boxing game with yours now. There's a sizing trick to get it past customs without being warehoused for 3 months somewhere. 2 full tilt sheeted kits to Canada, is interesting...so expect more than a couple of boxes. Also take note customs more than likely WILL have a peek. So don't be alarmed, as long as the stuff gets there intact. I'm still worried about the belly cores, but we'll try it.

2 thoughts: first, the wing panels. On a honeycombed panel the last thing you want to do is glass it and paint it when running a DZ. They are fragile and gain a lot of strength from either monokote or something else, .7 oz glass doesn't really add as much strength as you would think. I haven't actually heard of a wing failure on a Black Magic ever, so maybe this just isn't a concern. But silkspan might be the better way to go.

Secondly, I'll say it again, watch the weight! This plane has a TON of surface area. it has 950 squares of wing, and right at 900 square inches of fuse (per side plus more). It is still to this day one of the biggest planes in pattern. Experiment, practice your technique, and think LIGHT, and you'll be successful.

As for finished weight, I could really get in a heated storm of a debate here, but follow me....I really don't think this plane cares if it's 9.5 lbs or 10 lbs 15.5 ounces. I've flown them from 9 lbs 10 ounces to 11 lbs 5 ounces and if anything the heavier ones flew better. The magic number for this plane is between 10 and 10 lbs 8 ounces. Sure some bizarre FAI manuevers are easier under 10, but the plane just flies better all the way around at about 10 1/2.

Now some advice: Build this thing like you KNOW it will end up 15 lbs and tail heavy. Just proceed with that in your mind and you're almost garaunteed to make weight. Don't get lazy ANYWHERE. ESPECIALLY with the finish. That's how Mike Wingo painted his, and it came out 10 lbs 8 ounces all paint on his first glassed fully painted 2 meter. Heck I haven't even pulled that one off yet....but that's a psychological trick I use and it works. Sort of like some people messing with thier alarm clocks setting it ahead a few minutes as added insurance...and don't look at something and decide it's not strong enough. AKA don't overbuild it, it's overbuilt already. Anything else is dead weight.

Pretty much everything you could want to know is here and on our support forums on my site. The instructions are adequate, but there's no way I can account for everything. if you have a question, ask it with pics if possible...that's what this thread and the support forums are for. However if I recall you have some good experience to draw from so you should find these some of the easiest planes you've ever built. Just give yourself a LOT of time for finish and details. There's no way to rush that part.

Over on my site I have a finishing thread on glassing and painting that's nice. It's not quite finished but it's done through the base coat. if you're glassing and painting that's the best way I have found. Dean also has some good step by step tips in this thread as well. And John has a good thread on dope and silkspan over there too.

Feel free to post pics, and jump in with progress pics and stuff, share!!!

back to work,
-Mike

PS Whassup Greg!!!