Eh, with all due respect...

A properly tuned idle will help eliminate or reduce siphoning caused by tank height differences to almost nil. At idle the siphoning flow should drop to a very slow drip which is not problematic.

The tank height is not as crucial as made out to be, while it helps to eliminate siphoning in either direction, on a normal arf flipping the engine inverted will produce almost no difference in runs... even if the tank is left as designed. Quite often this is overstated here as a problem, when it is not. We would all have nothing but deadsticks the second we point our engines nose up in flight... if tank height was as problematic as it is made out to be.

As far as starting, an inverted 2 stroker may only need a bit less or more priming and it is advisable to run the engine up for 10-20 seconds when it is cold to help bring up the head temperature.

As far as pooling, you are advised to use a "long" plug on inverted engines to keep the element out of any fuel in case it occurs. This is something not often tried by those who are having problems with inverted mount engines.

If ignitor clearance is an issue inverted then it is usually an issue upright as well, however I've seen people become very apprehensive about reaching down to grab an ignitor...

I've no problem with this, but as said to each their own... in this case a remote ignitor is easy to install and use, and it brings your hands safely away from the spinning prop, much more so than an upright or side mount engine.

I've never had to resort to any measures to keep the carb from flooding on inverted mounts, and I've never had to change the position of a tank to get an engine to run or idle properly.

I have seen people complain about an inverted engine which they could not get running... especially when the engine is new...

I change out their plug for a long one, and get them to put on a slightly heavier APC prop during break-in... I then show them how to start their engine... no problems thereafter.