I think this is a new picture on the FEJ instruction manual.
Phantoman, My setup:
AMT USA 280 (28lbs thrust) with airstart and 4600mah ni-mh sub "C" 8cell ECU pack. Its fairly heavy but I wanted simple, affordable, reliable capacity. I would like to use Li-fe or Li-poly as they are lighter. Simply a matter of money at this point. ElectroDynamics has a great setup using A123 cells and can make you a custom pack with their HD switch that is setup so you can charge via the switch using a CellPro. Great setup. The battery chemistry is still fairly new though. I have already seen one fail in a friends F-16.
Two 2600 Fromeco Li-ion packs into a Smart-Fly SuperReg which provides battery redundancy, switch redundancy and battery balancing to keep the packs even so I have a total of 5200mah for the Rx system.
http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Regulator/3.htm
Two SmartFly HD switches, one for each Fromeco pack.
http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Switch/switch.htm Electro Dynamics also has a nice switch...viturtually the same.
I initially used Y harnesses on the ailerons, stabilators and flaps. The rudder servo wires were soldered together and combined on one male servo plug. This allowed me to use only one Y harness on the rudders and nose wheel steering servo.
All servos are digital hitecs with metal and ti gears. The rudders since they will virtually not move in flight are analog HS225BB servos with nylon gears. I have them setup with a 2:1 mechanical advantage to keep them firmly in position thus reducing the possibility of flutter. The nylon gears stay virtually slop free...much tighter than metal gears.
I used a Hitec servo programmer to setup all the endpoints and rotation directions. I'm going to port one of my two SuperReg Rx power outputs to one leg of the Aileron Y harness and run the other aileron servo lead into the free channel. This will allow me to use the ailerons as flaperons and should shorten the TO and LDG distances, lower stall speed and increase the ammount of power I can carry flying final approach to landing. This will keep spool up time to a minimum should more power be needed as in the case of a balked landing or a go-around.
I isolated the brakes to one air tank and used three tanks for the gear and doors.
FEJ brake valve plus one servo (analog hitec 322HD with Karbonite gears) They work great and are very inexpensive.
UP-6 Gear and doors valve plus one 322HD.
149DP PCM Futaba Rx
I utilized all FEJ control links, the ones for the stabilators seemed to be a little short and I may still replace them. All the others were great.
I did make up my own control linkages for the retract and brake servos.
I made up my own extensions with Airwild connectors and wire.
I also used hitecs own composite (black) servo horns....I like SWB but they are expensive and sometimes a pain to work with....I have also never seen one of the Black horns strip and I have raced 8th scale gas cars for years. They are very strong, lightweight and they are included with the servos.
Thats about all I can think of for now.