Don,

Thanks for your email. I'll get back to you shortly. I'm awaiting an email reply.

Regarding the fin, I think we'll be hard pressed to find a built up Tiporare these days. Maybe someone out there has one but I wouldn't bet on it. With that in mind I'm going to go out on a limb and offer my understanding of the construction sequence. Before doing so though, I would say that the approach is very similar to how a Curare or an Aurora fin is built. Several photos of fins of both models in construction are found in assorted threads here.

Maybe I'll do this in bullet form to keep me from wandering too much:

[ul][*] With the stab built, one covers the center with wax paper and lays the stab in position pinning it down or tack gluing.
[*] The fin TE post is then built by joining the fuse sides to a sheet balsa "stick" the height of the fin and just behind the stab. The depth of this post template is 3/16" on the 60 but is somewhat arbitrary (but not for a laser cutter! ). With this 3-ply laminate of balsa (two sides and one post template) the TE of the fuse now has the right thickness of the rudder at the LE.
[*] The post template is then "thickened" above the stab top on either side to match the fuse thickness below minus 1/8". For example for 1/8" fuse sides and a 1/16" post template, one would laminate 1/16" balsa on either side of the template above the stab top. So we have a 3/16" 3-ply laminate above the stab thus far.
[*]Next one lays down the fin base triangle (as per your your short kit) above the stab top which attaches the rear fuse top (below the fin sub LE) to the 3-ply fin post. This is followed by another triangular section which forms the sub LE of the fin and is glued at the top to a shorter triangular section joining the fin post front to the fin sub LE. With the 4 structures in place: fin post, fin base, fin sub LE and fin top, the frame of the fin is complete.
[*] The internal fin structure is then built consisting of 4 triangular sections: 1) the fin tip-base cross brace, 2) the fin base-sub LE support, 3) the fin base-cross brace support and 4) cross brace-sub LE support. This completes the fin frame-up. I would go a step further and add some triangular shims at all internal brace junctions for strength. I would also add two pieces of balsa within the fin at the two top hinge points inline with the rudder "ribs" to provide some meat for the hinges (hinge points ideal). In fact, one could substitute the fin tip triangular section for a thicker one to provide the balsa for the hinge point (1/4" on the 60) just like in the rudder at the top.
[*] With the fin now completely framed up, 1/16" sheeting is applied to each side resulting in a 5-ply laminate at the fin post of equal thickness of the fuse junction at the bottom rear.
[*] What remains is the soft balsa (scaled) 1" blocks (see plans) to feather the fuse into the fin and to provide a smooth continuous vertical extension of the fuse. I would simply use straight sections sanded flat at the top and bottom and then fair the fuse top sheet into the blocks with a piece of scrap balsa and filler.
[*] To complete the fin assembly, a 3-ply rectangular laminate is made and added to form the fin/rudder tip. Then sanded to lateral and vertical contour. Done!
[/ul]

The catch I think is the 3-ply fin post template laminate. Depending on the model scale, one has to be careful to select appropriate thickness for the fuse sides so that 1/16" balsa can be used to sheet the fin and result in a fin of equal thickness at the TE to the fuse bottom rear. As an example for the Nanorare (Tipo 20), 1/8" fuse sides, 1/16" fin post template = 5/16" TE thickness. This calls for 1/16" 3-ply post template laminate plus the 1/16" sheeting on either side = total 5/16".

Now, there would be a much simpler way to build the fin. Basically cut a 2" block (60 size) to the profile on the plans (minus fin base and post), tack glue it to the base and post, taper it and contour the LE. One could then hollow it out at the base and tip or bore lightening holes and finish off with the 3-ply fin tip. Less elegant but much simpler. A bored out fin would however require some sort of covering in the event of a painted finish as glassing wouldn't hold up in the bored regions (or maybe it would if one used 6 oz cloth but that would probably negate the boring and just add work).

I hope that interpretation is of some use. David.