Greetings. I don't know how much interest there will be for this thread given that the kit has long been discontinued and now even the ARF is out of production but here goes anyway. We are talking about the Great Planes kit of a scaled up version of the classic Lew Andrews Aeromaster. The original is certainly a favorite sport biplane along with the Sig Hog Bipe and the Skybolt.

In the way of history, Great Planes acquired the rights to the Aeromaster and released a kit called the Super Aeromaster. This kit had some improvements (depending on your point of view) like an engine cowl and traditional means of mounting the top wing instead of using rubber bands.

I have been flying an original Lew Andrews Aeromaster for about 5 years now and it is a terrific plane. I am not a radical flier and this plane can do everything that I would ever want and more. I am sure that in more capable hands than mine, it would also prove to be a very satisfying plane.

About two years ago I bought a finished "built-from-plans" version of the the Giant Aeromaster but I was not completely satisfied with it. I think it was built unnecessarily heavy and required quite a bit of tail weight making it even heavier. (That plane is in my [link=http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=gjQz2hFdHOQ]"Smoke Dreams"[/link] video.) It flew OK but I wanted to build my own. I eventually acquired both the Great Planes Super Aeromaster kit and their Giant Aeromaster from eBay. So let's get started....

Initial Thoughts...
Before starting the plane I gave some thought about what I wanted to do with it. Smoke was definite but I wondered what I could also add. How about a bomb drop!!! I can hear you now. "The guy complained about the weight of the last one and how he wants to add stuff like smoke and bomb dropping." A valid point but like I pointed out, the plane should be lighter even before adding the extra goodies. Also, I believe that I have devised an extremely light and versatile bomb drop method that is also dirt cheap. (More about that when the time comes.)

Getting Started...
First thing was to get the shop ready for a new project. With the benches and the wheeled work table cleared, I was ready to unpack and boy, there sure was a lot of wood to unpack. This is my first Great Planes kit and if they are all like this, I am impressed. Quality materials all around and neatly packed in bundles organized for easy retrieval. The plans are clear, well labeled, and on quality paper. The instruction book is OK, nothing impressive but it does the job. The plentiful black and white pictures are reasonably clear. The written instructions are easy to follow and not confusing but this is not a beginners kit by any means. Intermediate skills are essential. A lot of quality cuts from stick and sheet stock are required for a good fit and a quality outcome so care and patience are necessary.

The Tail Feathers...
The instructions start with the tail so that's where we shall begin. As you can see, the elevator is built up and then covered instead of just a slab. This yields a light and surprisingly strong structure and very straight. The first step is to cut and set the center section on the plans. Right off the bat I recommend a deviation from the instructions. The booklet calls for measurements to be marked on the one piece balsa center and then cut to make the correct angles for the leading edge. I feel that this is too inaccurate and recommend that you lay the piece on the plans and them mark it before cutting. It will turn out much better that way.

After the center piece is set, it is a simple matter of building the perimeter of the stabilizer. Then comes the internal pieces. Here is an example of the need for those quality cuts. Everyone has their own method but which ever you use, it is best not to just "eye ball it" and used you hobby saw to cut the internal pieces. As for me, I lay one end of the stick stock against the edge to be glued and then use my Exacto knife to make a mark at the other end at the correct angle but just a little short of the right length. Then I make a rough cut with my hobby saw leaving some wood between the mark and the cut so the piece is just a touch too long. It usually takes a trip or two to the belt sander, shaving off a little bit each time, keeping the edge parallel to the knife mark, before the piece fits snug. It may be tedious but it makes a very strong part that looks great. (Of course only I will know!)

After framing the stab, it is then sheeted and sanded to shape. The elevator is two separate pieces and are also built up but not sheeted. The trailing edge of the stab is left flat and the leading edge of the elevator sections are angle sanded to a point.

The instructions call for and show flat hinges. I prefer the rounded Robart style. When the time comes, I will drill small holes in the respective parts but for the very small Robart hinges. I use the small hinges just to hold everything together. This way I can assemble and disassemble things as needed until final assembly. Then I remove the small hinges, drill the proper sized hole and install the correct hinges.

The vertical stabilizer and the rudder are constructed in the same manner. I was very pleased as to how strong, light and straight the tail came out.

Next, the lower wing